Life is about the people you meet and the things you create with them

Live your dream and share your passion

When you eat, appreciate every last bite

Some opportunities only come only once-seize them

Laugh everyday

Believe in magic

Love with all your heart

Be true to who you are

Smile often and be grateful

…and finally make every moment count

Follow my new adventures: http://berniesafricanodyssey.blogspot.com

Thursday, October 11, 2012

MY STACK INVOLVING A TUK TUK AND A BIKE


WEATHER: BLOOMING HOT and 36C

HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY: Not getting run over with the tuk tuk after I fell off

BUMMER OF THE DAY: Falling off my bike

WORD OF THE DAY: Tuk tuk crash

THANKS TO ALL MY WATER CHARITY DONATIONS SO FAR:
Jo Braddish

DISTANCE TRAVELLED: 121km

BUDDHA QUOTE FOR THE DAY:
“When you realize how perfect everything is you will tilt your head back and laugh at the sky”

We leave Anuradhapura today and head to the town of Polonnaruwa.  No sleep in’s on this trip so far with my alarm going off at 5.55am, breakfast at 6.20am and then our private bus arrived to take us the 15 minutes to the public bus station and for our 4 hour bus ride.  Indika got us there a little early to make sure that we would get seats, as it can be a busy bus and who wants to stand for 4 hours.  Our bags were loaded onto the back seat of the bus and we were free to sit anywhere we wanted.  The seats we in a 2 seat, aisle and then a 3 seat.  I chose the very small 2 seat thinking if I when we had to get off the bus, one person to climb over was better than 2.  I also assessed which windows opened, which seats didn’t have windows and then chose the seat where I could have an open window to myself so I could take pictures while we were on the move.  It is so important where to sit on these drives not just for the photos but to have the breeze on my face as I was expecting the bus to be hot with the weather we have had the last few days.  We waited for 45 minutes and with about 10 minutes to go I got a small Sri Lankan guy sit next to me which I was fine with but there were 50 other seats still available on the bus.  Okay, so he wanted to sit next to a ‘western’ girl.  I get it.  So I try and do the right thing and say hello, ask if he speaks English (it was a no) so I took a self take photo of us and after that he points to my Ethiopian bangles, still not cottoning on I tell him they are from Africa, and then he points to my Moroccan ring to which I say Africa also and then he mimes to out the ring on his finger-ahhhh penny drops, he wants some of my jewelry.  So I say no with a smile and put in my ear phones.  I tried speaking to the locals and he asks for my stuff.  We left on time, which is apparently unusual and started the slow drive out of town.  Slow being the operative word as we stopped at a billion stops on the way out of town touting for people as we went.  We did pick up some people, but so far so good in relation to the amount of people on the bus.  If it is a male getting on or off the bus, it doesn’t completely stop it just slowly rolls to let the person on or off but for ladies I noticed that the bus would come to a complete stop, oh and for the oldies….. 

There is a driver and a ticket guy on the public busses.  People can get on via the front or back doors and they just go and take a seat and then after a while the ticket guy will come down the aisle, he recognizes the new people, they pay, he gives them a hand written ticket and then scans the crowd for the new comers.  He doesn’t come down at every stop; he makes a trip when there are enough newbies on the bus.  Even when the bus got busy after about 2 hours-he just pushes his way through the throng to collect the fares.  He had a system, the money went into the back of the receipt book, it was windy with all the windows open, the receipts looked they had been pre written up and he was done.  On our way out of town we also stopped at a roadside shrine where an offering is made for a safe journey and then we are back on the road again.  Literally the guy jumped off the bus, opened the door, took his shoes off, said his prayer for us all, shoes back on, him back on the bus and it was all done in 3 minutes.  Well if it keeps us safe then I am all for the ‘unofficial’ stop, but them the people we pick up and drop off are just by the road with no ‘official’ stops as such except through a few of the larger towns.  This bus had a flat screen TV and after we had cleared the city limits it was turned on and a version of Sri Lankan MTV came on and the speakers for the bus were not far from my seat and even with my headphones on I could hear the beat of the music.  It’s one way to keep people entertained.  As the bus filled up and people stood in the aisle it was hard to see the TV screen anyway, so I stuck to looking out my window watching the scenery passing me by.  Sri Lankans seem to be so friendly and are happy to wave and say hello as we pass and stop.  They have such warm and friendly smiles and it makes me happy to get a wave and a smile in return.  We had a lengthy stop at 9.40am and there were a herd of sellers that come on to sell you food from corn, to nuts, to fried chilies and dhal.  Indika bought some fried dhal for us to all try and I have to say it was delicious.  I skipped on the fried chili though but Christine rekons it wasn’t that spicy.  Yeah right according to Ms. Spice herself.  There was another stop at 10.30am for a toilet stop, not bad for a public bus.  The rule is if you want to get off the bus you need to leave something on your seat so nobody nicks it.  Since I was sitting on my own and the others were rows in front of me I had nothing short of my handbag to leave, so I didn’t end up getting off the bus.  I didn’t need to use the toilet but I would have loved a cold drink.  So I resorted to what I had in my bag and that was 2 Bertie Beetle chocolates that my God-daughters had bought to Thailand for me, better than nothing and a little disappointed no-one thought to ask if I wanted anything.  Never mind.  I am sure it wasn’t intentional. 

We arrived into Polonnaruwa at 11.45am.  There is an urgency to get all the bags off as quick as we can so as to not hold the bus up and this was done with the boys helping Indika shove them all off.  Our guesthouse was only a 50m walk away and as we stepped off the bus the full force of the days heat hit is and I am not sure how excited I am about jumping in bicycles again this afternoon in this oppressive heat but maybe it may cool down in the next few hours.  Yeah RIGHT-NOT!!!  The guesthouse was nice.  Lenore and I had a ground floor room and at this particular accommodation the air-conditioning was NOT included.  Well we had to fix that and for the princely sum of 500LKR (3.84AUD) we could have the remote control for the air-conditioner and we got that baby cranked up over lunch.  There were a few people who didn’t want to pay for the air-conditioning which I think is crazy as we really need our sleep at night as our days are so busy, and it is really quite hard to open a window as there are a lot of mozzies around.  I mean each to their own, but for 4 bucks it was a no brainer for Lenore and I AND we went halves, so it was only 1.92AUD each.  Lunch was at the guesthouse and then we were given 10 minutes to freshen up, grab what we would need for the afternoon’s bike ride and we left the hotel at 1pm for the 7 minute walk to the bike collection point for the afternoon.

The bikes surprisingly have been pretty good.  They have suspension and the seats seem to be comfy enough, even for my fat arse, the only thing lacking are the gears, they seem to be preset and I think that may have been part of my ride yesterday, it was in a high gear that was hard to start off with (any excuse) but today didn’t seem to bad and they had a choice of man bikes (high bar) and chick bikes (low bar) which was perfect for this black duck that doesn’t have the best kick leg action anymore to get over on the male bikes.  So after all the seats had been adjusted we set off down a small rocky lane, crossed the main road of town and rode the 5 minutes to The Polonnaruwa Archaeological Museum.  Even that 5 minute ride worked up a sweat, it was going to be a sweaty grimy day and when we walked through the doors of the museum a blast of cool air met us, well for the first room and then it was back to sauna conditions for the rest of the 40 minutes in the building.  Our guide was an engineer during his career so he was handy in giving us information on the buildings.  The museum exhibits finds excavated from the medieval city of Polonnaruwa, a UNESCO-listed site.  It is a great place to start a trip to Polonnaruwa, particularly as its models of the city’s buildings allow visitors to see what they would have looked like before setting off to the actual ruins.  It’s designed so that you walk from one end to the other, passing through a series of rooms, each dedicated to a particular theme: the citadel, the outer city, the monastery area and the periphery, and Hindu monuments. The latter room contains a wonderful selection of bronzes. Of particular interest are the scale models of buildings, including the vatadage (circular relic house), which show how they might have looked in their heyday – if you follow the theory that they once had wooden roofs.

Polonnaruwa is a town and also has the remains of the royal ancient city of the Polonnaru Kingdom.  The second most ancient of Sri Lanka's kingdoms, Polonnaruwa was first declared the capital city by King Vijayabahu I, who defeated the Chola invaders in 1070 to reunite the country once more under a local leader.  The Ancient City of Polonnaruwa has been declared a World Heritage Site.  The real "Hero of Polonnaruwa" of the history books is actually his grandson, Parakramabahu I. It was his reign that is considered the Golden Age of Polonnaruwa, when trade and agriculture flourished under the patronage of the king, who was so adamant that no drop of water falling from the heavens was to be wasted, and each was to be used toward the development of the land; hence, irrigation systems that are far superior to those of the Anuradhapura Age were constructed during Parakramabahu's reign, systems which to this day supply the water necessary for paddy cultivation during the scorching dry season in the east of the country. The Kingdom of Polonnaruwa was completely self-sufficient during King Parakramabahu's reign. 

We left the museum and followed the path that took us past the one of the greatest irrigation systems constructed during Parakramabahu's reign, the Parakrama Samudraya or the Sea of Parakrama. It is of such a width that it is impossible to stand upon one shore and view the other side, and it encircles the main city like a ribbon, being both a moat against intruders and the lifeline of the people in times of peace.  The great artificial lake is at once an expression, a statement of imperial power & monumental feet of engineering: irrigation of 18,000 acres of paddy fields for two seasons a year, a line of defence along the entire west flank of the city against the marauding Dravidian invasions from South India & cooling breeze to the citizens. The great reservoir was named after its imperial designer.

"Not one drop of water must flow into the ocean without serving the purposes of man" - King Parakrambahu the great (1164-1196 AD), the builder of rainwater reservoir "Sea of Parakrama"

It was beautiful with the mountains as a backdrop as we circled back to the bikes to cycle to the entrance of the ancient city to spend the rest of the afternoon looking at these spectacular ruins.  This did involve riding on the main road for 15 minutes and it was a little hairy with buses and trucks and cars all tooting us as we rode.  I guess it would have been funny to see 12 white people cycling on bikes at 2pm in the afternoon all sweating and red faced.  I saw a few air-conditioned vans pass us with tourists inside and I bet that they are thinking what crazies we are, because that is normally me and I would be thinking that we WERE crazy!!!

Our first stop was one of the 14 Hindu temples that could be found in the Kingdom dedicated to God Siva of 12th century vintage.  The South Indian invasion of Polonnaruwa during the 10th century resulted in some Hindu ruins. There are a total of 14 Hindu shrines in ancient Polonnaruwa today, of which the Shiva Devale is one of the best restored. The Shiva Devale was built by the Chola rulers of Polonnaruwa, and contains the male lingam and female yoni, Hindu icons representative of the male and female reproductive organs.  The temple bears sign that it has been restored by anastylosis, a method of restoration which was also employed in Angkor and Borobudur, in which the stones are carefully dismantled, and then reassembled. Missing pieces are replaced with similar stones only for the purpose of maintaining the structure from falling apart.  They all still had numbers on the stones which was nice to have a small insight onto how they carry out the restoration work. 

From here we rode for 5 minutes to Polonnaruwa Vatadage.  Because it was so hot, we had all packed a pair of socks to wear while we were walking around the sacred sites.  It would just be too hot to go bare foot, so as we all walked over the sand in our socks (nice look) it did take the punch out of the heat out of the rock and temples that we were walking on.  Polonnaruwa Vatadage is an ancient structure and  is believed to have been built during the reign of Parakramabahu I to hold the tooth relic of the Buddha, or during the reign of Nissanka Malla to hold the alms bowl used by the Buddha. Both these venerated relics would have given the structure a great significance and importance at the time. Located within the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, it is the best preserved example of a vatadage in the country, and has been described as the "ultimate development" of this type of architecture. Abandoned for several centuries, excavation work at the Polonnaruwa Vatadage began in 1903.  Built for the protection of a small stupa, the structure has two stone platforms decorated with elaborate stone carvings.  Four Buddha statues are seated around it, each facing one of the entrances.  The four Buddha statues, which depict the Dhyana mudra, are also carved from solid rock. Two of them are more or less intact today, while only parts of the other two remain. The stupa in the middle appears to have been of the Bubbulakara (bubble shaped) design commonly seen in Sri Lanka. The upper part has been destroyed, and only the dome shaped lower part now remains.  Three concentric rows of stone columns had also been positioned here, presumably to support a wooden roof. The entire structure is decorated with stone carvings. Some of the carvings at the Polonnaruwa Vatadage, such as its sandakada pahanas, are considered to be the best examples of such architectural features.  This is one of the most photographed images of the ancient city and it was amazing to get to walk and touch it all. 

Not far from the Polonnaruwa Vatadage was Gal Pota which is a massive 26 ft. slab of stone lies by the side of the Hetadage in which King Nissankamalla had his own deeds recorded in stone.  The inscriptions also contain particulars of King Nissankamalla’s genealogy and his wars with Dravidian invaders from South India. The inscription itself says that the slab of stone was brought to the location from Mihintale.  The inscription has been of great assistance to the scholars since it also reveals evolution of the Sinhala script. On the side of Gal Pota are two stone carved Elephants sprinkling water on goddess Lakshmi, the Hindu Goddess of Prosperity and it is claimed that the solid slab of stone was dragged by elephants the 110km from Mihintale.  There were a lot of midgies around, like the second you stopped moving there would be 50 of them around your legs but they didn’t seem to be biting me and Les made a comment that they are probably drowning in our sweat!  Ha ha ha – funny-they probably didn’t have anywhere to land!!! 

Some of the other the buildings that we saw during the first 2 hours also included:

The Hatadage which is an ancient relic shrine.  It was built by Nissanka Malla, and had been used to keep the Relic of the tooth of the Buddha. The Hatadage had been built using stone, brick and wood, although only parts of the brick and stone walls now remain. It appears to have been a two-story structure, but the upper story has now been destroyed. Three Buddha statues carved out of granite rock are located within a chamber of the shrine.  The shrine is surrounded by a stone wall, 37m long and 27m wide.  However, only the walls now remain. The walls of the shrine are made of brick, and the outer walls are covered with stone plates. The main entrance leads to a small chamber.  At the center of this chamber are three standing Buddha statues carved from granite. These are also partially destroyed. The statue in the middle is 2.7m in height, while the other two are 2.3m each.  This is the house of the tooth relic of Lord Buddha built by King Vijayabahu I (1070-1110). This building is built on 54 stone pillars. The tooth relic has been kept on the second floor probably mage out of wood. The access to the second floor is through a granite stair case. Few steps still remain of this staircase which led to the upper chamber of the building.

Satmahal Prasada represents another unusual design for a temple, unique in Polonnaruwa. The name means "Seven Story Edifice", and appears as a stepped pyramid. Historians and archaeologists are stumped as to its origin, as there was no mention of it in the ancient chronicles. Each floor has a niche that contain figurines, some of which still there.  In all likelihood, the Satmahal Prasada probably bears influences from the Khmers, who are renowned at building temple mountains which are ziggurat-like as well. Visitors admiring the Satmahal Prasada can be satisfied with the knowledge that they know as much about it as the historian, that is, nothing.

Thuparama, a brick-built vaulted shrine, is in a fine state of preservation. Thuparma, the oldest image house at Polonnaruwa goes back the reign of King Vijayabahu the first (1055-1110 A.D.).  A brick base about one meter high with three projections once carried an image of Buddha, which is now simple a pile of bricks. The stone images in the Thuparama date back to Anuradhapura period.   This image house is one of the few buildings where you can see a roof completely made out of bricks. Almost the whole building as survived over 900 years miraculously. The roof is a semi-cylindrical in shape. The original name of this image house is not known; therefore the builder of this is also unknown. It is thought that this was built by a minister of King Parakramabahu (1153-1186) called Mahinda to house the tooth relic. Another belief is that this was built by king Vijayabahu I (1070-1110).  The walls of this building are about 2 meters thick and inside a large seating Buddha statue has been kept. Nothings remain of this statue today. It is said that the eyes of this Buddha statue was embedded with precious stones and the windows were designed in such a manner the sunlight would reflect on these stones and light the image house.

The Palace of King Parakramabahu.  The Palace must have been an imposing edifice once, richly decorated and seven stories high: the remaining walls of the palace are of extra-ordinary thickness and the drainage system is intriguing. The structural techniques of this period were the same as those of the Anuradhapura period, but there was a greater use of lime mortar, which enabled the building of brick structures of dimensions never before attempted.  This is a majestic palace build by king Parakramabahu with seven stories and said to have 1000 chambers. Although the main building possibly couldn’t hold such a number of chambers, when you consider the whole palace complex it is thought that this number is a possibility.  Today you can see the massive walls over a meter thick going up to about 9 meters and the bottom half of the main stairway which led to upper floors. Inside the building you can see parts of melted brick walls caused by intense heat when this was set fire by Tamil invaders at the end of Polonnaruwa era. Around the main palace there are remains of more buildings where the ministers, solders and servants lived.  Large holes in the wall probably held massive wooden structures that formed the floor of the upper levels.  Even after facing such destruction by human hand and then by Mother Nature for 800 years, the plastering on these walls still remains in some places.

A little further on was the beautiful royal bath, the Kumara Pokuna. Across the way is the beautiful Royal Audience Hall - embellished with lion portals, graceful pillars and a moonstone. (a delicately carved stepping stone).  Here we decided to stop for a cold drink from a very smart vendor that had set up a shop near the royal bath.  His prices were a little high, but after being out in the blazing sun for 2 hours, I would have paid triple for the cold coke that I held in my hands.  Then I saw someone with an icy pole, so I went back and bought one of those and I have never enjoyed an ice block more than I did at that time and then I went to have a sip of water and I was running on empty, so I had to go back a third time and I bought another bottle of water.  There was a group of Japanese tourists we had been following around the last few sights and they then hit the shop, so he must make a roaring trade down near the baths.  The other thing we had to tackle was the sellers.  It was SO HOT, so it was tough to just concentrate and get from the bikes to some shade to the ruins and back again let alone telling people that you just weren’t interested in buying a stone box, a stone Buddha, an elephant family made from wood or any ‘silver’ jewelry that is not really ‘silver’.  I didn’t want to be rude, after all they are just trying to make a buck as well, but I was over heated, sweaty and just wanted to be left alone.  I did see one guy from the museum that was now at the ruins and he was smart enough to not ask me again if I wanted to buy a straw hat and that was worth the high five we gave each other the next few times we saw each other. 

It was now just after 4pm and we had one more stop of the day and that was to the Gal Vihara.  It was a 25 minute ride from where we were so after our little refreshment stop we were feeling a little more perked up for the ride.  The roads in the park are made mostly of that loose shale, rocks and compacted earth.  We had the backup tuk tuk again today with Janice safely planted in the back.  Nice Garry had decided to get a bike today, so it would have made it harder for me to pack in the bike again today even if I wanted to, but I wanted to try and last the distance today so I stuck in there for the last stop.  I was at the back of the group and the tuk tuk was directly behind me, so I waved the driver up to come closer so that I could hang onto the tuk tuk and get a free ride part of the way.  So he did and I held on for a few minutes before a bridge loomed and I let go so that we could both pass safely over.  He then sped up again for me to hold on so I did and we over took 5 of the group with me yip yaying and whoop whooping the whole time telling the driver to go faster.  I rekon we would have been going 25km an hour, we were hooting along and then Gazza decides to jump on the free ride and took hold of my handle bars.  So we now had a tuk tuk to my left, me attached to the said tuk tuk and then Gazza attached to me.  Does that sound like a recipe for disaster?  Well it was and before I knew it my bike slid out from under me and I was lying face down on the loose gravel wondering what the hell happened.  The tuk tuk stopped of course, the 5 people we had over taken stopped and the rest of the group were at the next stop looking back and after speaking to Christine later who was apart of that first group thought I had been hit by the tuk tuk, she said it looked bad.  I got up, and there was Indika and the tuk tuk driver washing down the dust and stones from my legs with water and before I knew it Serena was there with a wipe and band aide to patch up my gravel rash on my left hand that was bleeding and a gouge I had taken out of my middle finger on my right hand that was also bleeding.  But other than that I had escaped quite miraculously unscathed.  Considering how much more worse it could have been with a vehicle involved (no matter how small) is considered lucky.  I am sure a few bruises will pop up and I was also double lucky as I had my big camera around my neck and that it had escaped any damage considering I fell face first!  What a goose.  Later again people we all telling what they had seen and I really think it was no-one’s fault (but my own stupidity of course) as it seems Gazza let go of my handlebars, I hit a patch of soft sand and it all went pear shaped from there.  I’m not blaming anyone but don’t tell Gazza that as he feel pretty bad about the whole thing and he later confessed that he ran over my back tyre in his attempt to stay on his own bike once I had gone down.  So not only did I nearly get run over by a tuk tuk but I also can add a bike to the equation as well. 

Well after dusting myself off and telling everyone I was okay we cycled on and this is when I felt the pain in my arm and it was excruciating.  I’d say what I had done was try and hold onto the tuk tuk as I fell and my arm was pulled back behind me and I think I have now pulled or strained something in the shoulder region.  I can’t lift my arm up past 90 degrees.  It really really hurt, but I sucked it up and even after Indika’s insistence to hop in the tuk tuk we arrived at Gal Vihara.  The Gal Vihara is a rock temple of the Buddha.  It was constructed in the 12th century by Parakramabahu I. The central feature of the shrine are four images of the Buddha, which have been carved into the face of a large granite rock. The images consist of a large seated figure, another, smaller seated figure inside an artificial cavern, and standing figure and a reclining figure. These are considered to be some of the best examples of ancient Sinhalese sculpting and carving arts, and have made the Gal Vihara one of the most visited monuments in Polonnaruwa.  Each of the images have been carved in a way that uses a maximum possible area of the rock, and their heights seem to have been decided based on the height of the rock itself. Each statue appears to have had its own image house, as indicated by the remains of brick walls at the site. The Gal Vihara, or Uttararama as it was known during that period, was where Parakramabahu I held a congregation of monks to purify the Buddhist priesthood, and later drew up a code of conduct for them. This code of conduct has been recorded in an inscription on the same rock face containing the images of the Buddha.  The main feature of Gal Vihara is the four images of the Buddha that have been carved on a single, large granite rock face.  The rock has been cut almost 4.6m deep to create a rock face to accommodate the statues, and is the only example in the country where a natural rock has been excavated to this extent for such a purpose.  The images position the temple alongside some of the most significant monuments which survive from the ancient kingdoms of Sri Lanka, and make it the most celebrated and visited temple in Polonnaruwa. Three of the images are quite large; the smallest of them is more than 4.6m tall, and the largest is more than 14m long.

The most inspiring was the reclining image, which depicts the Buddha's parinirvana, and is the largest in Gal Vihara.  At 14.12m in length, the reclining image is the largest statue in Gal Vihara, and also one of the largest sculptures in Southeast Asia. It depicts the parinirvana of the Buddha, who is lying on his right side with the right arm supporting the head on a bolster, while the left arm lies along the body and thigh. The palm of the right hand and the soles of the feet have a single lotus flower carved on them.  The upper foot—the left foot of the image—is slightly withdrawn to indicate that the image depicts that the Buddha has attained parinirvana, and is not merely lying down.  So we were barefoot again for the last time and as you walked around this smaller section of the ruins you have to remember that when you get your photo taken with Buddha you can’t have your back to the statue 100% you have to be turned on your side in respect.   

Now it was time to head home-it was past 5pm and we had around a 30 minute ride ahead of us.  My bike was now making a clicking noise, so I must have done some damage to the bike also but I think it may just have been a pedal that was clicking on the chain.  Either way, I was happy that 85% of the ride was downhill and we had to take our chances again on the main road to get back to the bike drop-off house.  There was an amazing sunset as we were riding to my left and I was going to try and take a photo while moving on the bike but thought better of it, can you imagine if I fell off a second time trying to take a photo and I have a funny feeling the bitumen road will do a hell of a lot more damage than the shale road I fell on an hour ago.  We all made it in one piece back, again with some toots from lorry drivers and busses, and when we arrived there was a cold flannel, actually I think it was a frozen one, that we could wipe our hands and faces with and I have to say it was pure heaven, even though in the heat it didn’t stay cold for too long, but it was enough to wipe the grit and sweat from my face.  By this time I was looking quite disheveled.  I was dusty from the fall, which had stuck to the sweat from the day; I had blood on my shorts, sore knees, cuts on my hands and a sore arm.  But I was alive.  I just couldn’t wait to get into a shower and get some clean clothes on.  It would also be nice to have my hair down for once, as it has been too damn hot to leave it down and it has been up the whole trip, considering I am a hair down girl this is a pretty big thing for me.   
Dinner was low key at the restaurant which suited me fine with me as my arm was throbbing.  Lenore and Christine gave me some drugs to tide me over till tomorrow when I would have a chance to get to the pharmacy and get my own supplies.  There was free Wi-Fi at the hotel and I got an email telling me that Human Nature was coming to town at Christmas!!!  So I rang Shelly on her mobile, left a message and told her the great news and then realized that the Elks were still in Singapore.  So I sent a text message asking what night would suit her best and then I was going to buy the tickets.  I also got a message from SA that George Michael had cancelled his concerts in Australia-which is a real bummer as I had arranged all my dates around his concert and to be home for my birthday.  So I am looking at date changing my ticket home by a couple of days so that I can book on the Saudi Arabia Airlines fare to Addis and save 500AUD when I go back to Ethiopia in November.  So George can get stuffed and we now have Toby and the boys from Human Nature to take his place instead. 

So it was an eventful day, a hot day, an interesting day and I SURVIVED.  So it is nice to report that the injury was not alcohol induced and the last time I had a serious injury was my drunken fall in Africa where I had a bruise that lasted nearly 6 months-there must have been something more wrong than a bruise with that, but I got some advice to massage the bruise out on my South America trip and it righted itself.   

Sunday, October 7, 2012

BIGGEST STUPA, OLDEST STUPA AND THE OLDEST TREE IN THE WORLD


WEATHER: Hot and 35C- it really is an oppressive heat

HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY: Surviving 4 hours of the 7 hour bike ride….

BUMMER OF THE DAY: It is so DAMN HOT

WORD OF THE DAY: Stupor  

THANKS TO ALL MY WATER CAHRITY DONATIONS SO FAR:
Massimo Ferrari

BUDDHA QUOTE FOR THE DAY:
Health is the greatest gift, contentment the greatest wealth, faithfulness the best relationship. 
Buddha 

Before we leave anywhere in the morning Indika goes through a checklist of making sure we have everything we need for the day and if we are checking out making sure we have collected everything, charged everything and paid for everything.  It is so cute and you can see us all nodding as the items are read from his last each day.  We were heading on a bike ride today to see the ancient city of Anuradhapura.  I can ride a bike, I don’t mind riding bike, I am just not too good with hills and head winds.  But I am willing to give anything a go and today we were going to be on the bikes till around 3pm this afternoon.  So at 7.45am we met out the front to where all the bikes were lined up and we had to choose one, give it a test ride, get the adjustments made with the guy and the spanner and then we were on our way.  It was hot already and it was only 8am!  So we had to ride on the main road with all the traffic including the trucks. Busses and tuk tuks giving us a toot to let us know they were coming through.  We had a quick water stop, a busy intersection to cross, where our back up tuk tuk stopped the traffic to let us all cross in safety and then we got onto the more quite streets of the city.  Janice and Garry were in the tuk tuk as they weren’t comfortable riding the bikes on the busy roads and were also able to carry our spare water for the day.  Little did I know that the tuk tuk would be a life saver for me after lunch and that would be the way I would be getting home this afternoon? 

30 minutes later after turning off the main road and riding the smaller street we arrived at the   Anuradhapura KingdomThe Anuradhapura Complex named for its capital city, was the first established kingdom in ancient Sri Lanka and third administrative center in Kingdom of Rajarata. Founded by King Pandukabhaya in 377 BC, it is over 2,500 years old and the scary thing is that 70% of the ancient capital is still underground as Sri Lanka have not had the funds to excavate the whole site and what we can see is massive, can you imagine how big this place would be if 100% has been excavated!!!!  The kingdom's authority extended throughout the country, although several independent areas emerged from time to time, which grew more numerous towards the end of the kingdom. Nonetheless, the king of Anuradhapura was seen as the supreme ruler of the country throughout the Anuradhapura period. Buddhism played a strong role in the Anuradhapura period, influencing its culture, laws, and methods of governance. Society and culture were revolutionized when the faith was introduced during the reign of Devanampiya Tissa; this cultural change was further strengthened by the arrival of the Tooth Relic of the Buddha in Sri Lanka and the patronage extended by her rulers.  Invasions from South India were a constant threat throughout the Anuradhapura period. Rulers such as Dutthagamani, Valagamba, and Dhatusena are noted for defeating the South Indians and regaining control of the kingdom.  

Because the kingdom was largely based on agriculture, the construction of irrigation works was a major achievement of the Anuradhapura Kingdom, ensuring water supply in the dry zone and helping the country grow mostly self-sufficient. Several kings, most notably Vasabha and Mahasena, built large reservoirs and canals, which created a vast and complex irrigation network in the Rajarata area throughout the Anuradhapura period. These constructions are an indication of the advanced technical and engineering skills used to create them. The famous paintings and structures at Sigiriya; the Ruwanwelisaya, Jetavana stupas, and other large stupas; large buildings like the Lovamahapaya; and religious works (like the numerous Buddha statues) are landmarks demonstrating the Anuradhapura period's advancement in sculpting.

In 543 BC, Prince Vijaya (543–505 BC) arrived in Sri Lanka, having been banished from his homeland in India. He eventually brought the island under his control and established himself as king. After this, his retinue established villages and colonies throughout the country. One of these was established by Anuradha, a minister of King Vijaya, on the banks of a stream called Kolon and was named Anuradhagama.  In 377 BC, King Pandukabhaya (437–367 BC) made it his capital and developed it into a prosperous city. Anuradhapura (Anurapura) was named after the minister who first established the village and after a grandfather of Pandukabhaya who lived there. The name was also derived from the city's establishment on the auspicious asterism called Anura. Anuradhapura was the capital of all the monarchs who ruled the country during in the Anuradhapura Kingdom, with the exception of Kashyapa I (473–491), who chose Sigiriya to be his capital. 

Our first stop of the morning was to see the oldest living tree in documented history.  Sounds pretty impressive and I had a mental picture in my head on what this tree would look like.  After parking our bikes we dodged a few of the ‘sellers’ but I did get sucked into buying some water lilies (the national flower) to take as an offering when we got to the tree.  It was only 100LKR but Indika warned to buy the flowers closer to the entrance of the compound as there are monkeys that will sneak up on you and steal the flowers from you.  Well I had already spoken to ‘my’ dude and with his advice that the monkeys aren’t here this early, I thought I would take the risk and as nice Garry put it I was now monkey bait and I told the whole group that they needed to keep an eye out for the cheeky monkeys but I know that they just wanted to have a photo of me getting attacked by monkeys should this occur.  Walking the paved walkway, it was about 1km long, I felt like I was a walking target and found the need to keep looking over my shoulder.  At one stage I had to get something out of my bag and handed the flowers to Christine and she thought I had seen a monkey and was passing them off to her, too funny… but the flower guy was right and we didn’t see a single monkey for the whole walk to the tree entrance. 

While walking we started to see in full force the Buddhist flags.  The flag was designed in the late 19th century to symbolize and universally represent Buddhism. It is used by Buddhists throughout the world.  The flag was originally designed in 1885 by the Colombo Committee, in Colombo, Sri Lanka. The flag was published in the Sarasavi Sandaresa newspaper of 17 April 1885 and was first hoisted in public on Vesak day, 28 April 1885.  Colonel Henry Steel Olcott, an American journalist, founder and first president of the Theosophical Society, felt that its long streaming shape made it inconvenient for general use. He therefore suggested modifying it so that it was the size and shape of national flags. Modifications were made accordingly, which were adopted. The modified flag was published in the Sarasavi Sandaresa of 8 April 1886 and first hoisted on Vesak day 1886.  In 1889 the modified flag was introduced to Japan by Anagarika Dharmapala and Olcott—who presented it to the Emperor—and subsequently to Burma.  At the inaugural conference of the World Fellowship of Buddhists on 25 May 1950, its founder President Professor G P Malasekera proposed that this flag be adopted as the flag of Buddhists throughout the world; this motion was unanimously passed.  The six vertical bands of the flag represent the six colors of the aura which Buddhists believe emanated from the body of the Buddha when he attained Enlightenment:
Blue (Nila): Loving kindness, peace and universal compassion
Yellow (Pita): The Middle Path – avoiding extremes, emptiness
Red (Lohita): The blessings of practice – achievement, wisdom, virtue, fortune and dignity
White (Odata): The purity of Dharma – leading to liberation, outside of time or space
Orange (Manjesta): The Buddha's teachings – wisdom
The sixth vertical band, on the fly, is made up of a combination of rectangular bands of the five other colours, and represents a compound of the other five colours in the aura's spectrum. This compound colour is referred to as Pabbhassara ('essence of light').  I like the flag and I want to buy one before I finish the trip. 

So at the entrance of the Bodhi Tree we were required to take off our hats and shoes and then we had to walk through a security scanner to gain entrance.  Security was beefed up some years ago when in 1986 people were shot and in 1998 a bomb went off also killing some people.  The security has gone a little lax since then as the scanner we walked through wasn’t even plugged in.  The men had to pass through a men’s line and we had a female line for us to walk through.  Tickets were purchased in the main courtyard and then Indika told us the story behind the Bodhi Tree.  Its full name is Sri Maha Bodhiya and is the oldest living tree in documented history of the world.  It is a Sacred Fig tree and is said to be a sapling from the historical Bodhi tree under which Buddha became enlightened. It was planted in 288 BC and is said to be the southern branch of the Sri Maha Bodhi Bodhgaya India, also the oldest living human-planted tree in the world with a known planting date. The sacred tree brought by the Ven. Sangamitta, the sister of Ven. Arahath Mahinda who introduced Buddha's teachings into Sri Lanka.  The area around the Sri Maha Bodhi, the Brazen Palace and Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba was once probably part of the Great Temple. The sacred Bodhi tree is the oldest historically authenticated tree in the world, for it has been tended by an uninterrupted succession of guardians for over 2000 years, even during the periods of Indian occupation.  The tree compound is surrounded by a wall that was constructed during the reign of King Kirthi Sri Rajasingha, to protect it from wild elephants. The late Ven. Pallegama Rewatha Thera had planted the Pariwara Bo trees to camouflage the Bodhi to protect it from 'ruthless' humans and to safeguard it from natural disasters such as strong winds and rains.  A lot of Sri Lankan have sought the blessings of the Sri Maha Bodhi before commencing any important work, family occasion, purchase of something, family and anything else that people may need blessings for in their lives.  The Bodhi is part of the Atamasthana or Eight Sacred Places which are a series of locations in Sri Lanka where the Buddha had visited during his three visits to the country and the Bodhi was one of those eight places and we were also going to see Thuparamaya, Abhayagiri Dagaba and Jetavanarama which is a pretty cool claim to fame, whether you are into the faith or not.  So we went into the main temple where I made an offering to Buddha to give thanks not so much a religious gesture than out a sign of respect and if I can get some extra help for a better life, believer or not, I am happy to try my chances.  I think Buddhism is a faith I can relate to in regards to their main aspect in life is to make themselves a better person, understand themselves, and help the people around them to give them a better life.  There can’t be too much wrong with that philosophy can there?

We exited the Bodhi Tree compound and made our way back towards the bikes with a stop at the Ruwanmalisaya stupa.  It is considered a marvel for its architectural qualities and sacred to many Buddhists all over the world. It was built by King Dutugemunu c. 140 B.C., who became lord of all Sri Lanka after a war in which the Chola King Elara, was defeated.   The stupa is one of the world's tallest monuments, standing at 91m and with a circumference of 290m it was a pretty impressive building to admire and walk around clockwise as Buddhists do.  It is amazing to me they build this massive constructions that are not to be entered, nothing stored in them and to not be used as a traditional building.  All that effort.  The construction of stupas was noticeable not only during the Anuradhapura Kingdom but throughout the history of Sri Lanka. Stupas were built enshrining an object of worship. The Anuradhapura dagabas which date from the early centuries of the Anuradhapura period are of such colossal proportions that they constitute the largest structures of their type anywhere in the Buddhist World, even rivaling the Pyramids of Egypt in size.  Stupas had deep and well-constructed foundations, and the builders were clearly aware of the attributes of the materials used for construction. Suitable methods for each type of material have been used to lay foundations on a firm basis.  All buildings have been adorned with elaborate carvings and sculptures and were supported by large stone columns. These stone columns can be seen in several buildings.  Drainage systems of these buildings are also well planned, and terra cotta pipes were used to carry water to drainage pits.  Buildings were constructed using timber, bricks and stones. Stones were used for foundations and columns, while brick were used for walls. Lime mortar was used for plastering walls.  It is white washed once a year to maintain its ghost white colour all year round.  There is a 40cm crystal at the top of the spire and during the Full Moon festivities 1 million people come here to offer their thanks.  1 million people!!!  Imagine how busy that would be!!!  I used my 2 last water lilies here as an offering here and then we headed back to the bikes and our next stop for the day at the museum.

The museum was good, it was like any other archeological museum, but it was hot as an oven inside.  So needless to say we only spent around 45 minutes here looking in the treasure room, the pottery room and the object room.  Indika’s mum works at the museum and we met her on our way back out to the bikes for the 10 minute ride to the biggest stupor ever built.  Jetavanaramaya.  It is located in the ruins of Jetavana Monastery in the sacred world heritage city of AnuradhapuraKing Mahasena (273-301 AD) initiated the construction of the stupa following the destruction of Mahavihara, his son Meghavanna resume the construction work of the stupa. A part of a sash or belt tied by the Buddha is believed to be the relic that is enshrined here.  The archaeologists believe it may have the original height over 100m, but today is about 70m, and also this was a similar height to the Abhayagiri as well. A British guidebook from the early 1900s calculated that there were enough bricks in the dagoba’s brick core to make a 3m-high wall stretching from London to Edinburgh.  It is also significant in world history as one of the tallest structures in the ancient world.  The height of the stupa is 122m and was the tallest ancient stupa in the world; the structure is no longer the tallest however it is the largest with a volume of 233,000 m2. At the time of its completion the structure was the third tallest structure in the world behind the Great Pyramids of Giza. Approximately 93.3 million baked bricks were used in its construction; the engineering ingenuity behind the construction of the structure is a significant development in the history of the island.  

From here we took a 15 minute walk around some of the surrounding ruins and behind Jetavana stands the ruins of a monastery that could accommodate around 3000 monks and one building has door jambs over 8m high which is still standing and we saw.  It was MASSIVE.  Just imagine how big those doors had to have been!!!!  At one time, those massive doors opened to reveal a large Buddha image where the only thing now remaining is the partial lotus flower that the Buddha sat on. 

I was starting to fade in the heat now.  I was hot and by this time it was 11.45am and we had been on the move for nearly 4 hours and I was really feeling the pinch.  We had a 15 minute ride to one of the most beautiful constructions in Anuradhapura, the Twin Ponds.  These bathing ponds are not twins ( are positioned in such a way that they appear almost the same) one is larger (132ft large and 51 ft. wide) and the other is smaller (91ft by 51 ft.) and were built by the Sinhalese in 6th-8th centuries. They were built in granite, flight of steps are located on both ends of the pools decorated with Punkalas (pots of abundance). The water was channeled to the ponds by a sophisticated system of filtration and was used as a bathing place by the monks of Abhayagiri Monastery in northern part of the city.  They still had a small amount of water in one of them and a handful of dead fish and going by the temperature I rekon they tried to jump out of the hot water and dies anyway.  Poor buggers.  We used this stop to refresh our water supplies and we all got a cold soft drink to get some needed sugar back into our dehydrated bodies. 

Our next and mast stop before lunch was the Samadhi Statue.  It is randomly in Mahamevnāwa Park in Anuradhapura.  It is a statue with Buddha depicted in the position of the Dhyana Mudra, the posture of meditation associated with his first Enlightenment, also called Nirvana. In the Dhyana Mudra the Buddha sits cross - legged with his upturned palms placed one over the other on his lap. This position is universally known throughout the Buddhist world, and this statue is therefore one of the most typical pieces of Buddhist sculpture. This statue is 8 feet in height and carved from granite.

The next stop was lunch and I was done.  Cooked, done and had enough.  I was lucky that nice Garry was happy to swap his spot in the tuk tuk, so he took my bike and I gladly took his seat.  The tuk tuk was like a backup vehicle anyway and we drove behind the last rider and lunch was only a 5 minute ride away, but I really don’t think I could have gone much further.  But it was lunch time now, time to refuel our bodies and knowing that the ride home was to be uphill and we still had some sights to see, I just hoped that nice Garry was going to stay on the bike for me till we got back to the hotel.  Lunch was at Elephant Pond.  This gigantic man made pond is 150 meters in length 50 meters across and 10 meters in depth with the holding capacity of 75,000 cubic meters of water.  There was no water in it to speak of when we were there, but it is still a pretty impressive site.  The water to this pond has been supplied through a network of underground canals and these underground canals still work after so many hundreds years and in 1982 after a very heavy rainy season you could see water pouring though these inlets.  This tank probably has been used by the monks in the Abeygiri monastery who amounted over four thousand priests.  Lunch was an impressive spread provided by the bike rental company of a handful of traditional Sri Lankan dishes with rice.  I put everything on my plate but it is with sadness I couldn’t eat it all as it was just too spicy for me.  So I ate all my rice and with pineapple and bananas for dessert I had a few of those to fill me up till dinner.  With food in this country comes the monkeys and Indika and the bike people had done well so far to keep these critters at bay, but once the bananas came out I just knew we were going to lose them and within 10 minutes as we were looking at one monkey, 2 came from behind and swiped the whole bunch off the tray!  Cheeky things they are and that monkey knew he had to act fast so he peeled them all and stored them in his mouth and then went to share them with his family.  Smart, but cheeky all the same.  It was nice sitting under the shade of these massive trees and think back to when this would have been a thriving city with 5,000 monks in the height of its glory days.  And it really is 15C cooler in the shade, that much I can tell you.

So it was time to pack up and we had a quick look at some of the ruins of the Abhayagiri Refectory where 5,000 monks were fed twice a day at 6am and then again before 12 noon.  That makes 10,000 meals pushed through this very place we were standing at now.  Amazing.  We were back on our bikes at 1.30pm to our next stop to see Half Moon Stone.  The first Moonstones (sandakada pahanas) were created during the latter stage of the ancient Anuradhapura Kingdom. They were only placed at entrances to Buddhist temples during this period.  The carvings of the semicircular stone slab were the same in every sandakada pahana. A half lotus was carved in the center, which was enclosed by several concentric bands. The first band from the half lotus is decorated with a procession of swans, followed by a band with an intricate foliage design known as liyavel. The third band has carvings of four animals; elephants, lions, horses, and bulls. These four animals follow each other in a procession symbolizing the four stages in life: growth, energy, power and forbearance. The fourth and outermost band contains a carving of flames.  They are pretty impressive works of art and with some wise words from Indika; it made standing in the sun to listen to the stories worth it. 

We had 2 more stops for the day.  We had seen the most important stupa, the biggest stupa and now we were to see one that was 95% through its restoration and after 25 years it was into its last 6 months of completion.  Rathna Prasadaya was a skyscraper stupa built by King Kanittha Tissa who ruled Ceylon from 167 to 186 AD. Mihindu II and Mihindu IV renovated the building during the 8th and 10th centuries. It looked like a massive pin cushion with all the outer scaffolding still in place around this massive structure.  We got to hold the 2 sized bricks that are being used for the project and the largest one was around 10kg.  Just think we held a brick that was going to go it a structure that is being restored 2100 years after it was originally built.  We also got to touch some of the original bricks at the previous stupa and they were 2,500 years old.  Pretty mind boggling huh!!!!

FINALLY our last stop for the day was at Thuparamaya which is a stupa.  It is a Buddhist sacred place of veneration. Thera Mahinda, an envoy sent by King Ashoka himself introduced Theravada Buddhism and also chetiya worship to Sri Lanka. At his request King Devanampiyatissa built Thuparamaya in which was enshrined the collarbone of the Buddha. It is considered to be the first dagaba built in Sri Lanka following the introduction of Buddhism. This is considered the earliest monument, the construction of which was chronicled Sri Lanka. The name Thuparamaya comes from "stupa" and "aramaya" which is a residential complex for monks.  Thuparama Dagoba is the oldest dagoba in Sri Lanka – indeed, probably the oldest visible dagoba in the world. This was just a ride by as everyone now had reached their limit.  It had been a big day and we all just wanted to get out of the sun and get a cold drink in the hand.  I felt a little guilty as I jumped in the tuk tuk with Janice for the 20 minute ride back to the hotel.  75% of the ride was up hill and I just know I would have struggled to get back.  Gary and Kevin had a small reprieve holding onto the side of the tuk tuk for a few minutes each and as we were the ‘caboose’ of the group we were able to stop and take some photos of some black faced monkey on the way home.  Even though they are a menace here they are still cute but scary if they come within 3m of me though. 

We back to the hotel at 3pm and as soon as I had walked in the door, I went straight to the bar and asked for a bottle of coke and a glass of ice, and I swigged that whole thing in 5 seconds flat.  I have found eating the ice here hasn’t caused me any problems so I am happy to ask for ice where-as the rest of the group think I am crazy.  But this is the 3rd place so far I’ve had ice in my drink and I have had no tummy issues what so ever (touchwood) and with the weather so hot it is a risk I am willing to take.  I was absolutely knackered.  The group met at 6.30pm for our next day’s events and then some of them went out of the hotel for dinner.  I couldn’t be fagged and a handful of us stayed and had dinner at the hotel.  I tried calling Zeme a few times to no avail, which is a bummer, but this happens and I will just have to try him another day.  I was all tucked up in bed by 9pm and didn’t realize till Lenore and I looked at our clocks as I set my alarm and we just had to laugh.  Talk about a pair of party animals …. NOT.  The heat really does sap your energy but I am going to make sure no matter what that my blog entries don’t fall more than 4 days behind as I learnt my lesson the hard way a few weeks ago.   

What an amazing day.  A long day.  A MEGA HOT day but we saw some incredible things and the group is all getting along well.  What more could a travelling gal ask for?


Friday, October 5, 2012

MIHINTALE-THE BIRTH OF BUDDISM IN SRI LANKA


WEATHER: Hot as an oven and 36C and SUNNY

HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY: We are on the road today

BUMMER OF THE DAY: It is like a sauna

WORD OF THE DAY:  Are You Bo One (Ayubowan) May you live long and I wish you good life

THANKS TO ALL MY WATER CAHRITY DONATIONS SO FAR:
Kate Sladdin and Marina Kadlubowski…

DISTANCE TRAVELLED: 212km

BUDDHA QUOTE FOR THE DAY: Thousands of candles can be lighted from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared. 

Today we leave Negombo and head to Anuradhapura 212km away.  We are lucky for the first day we are in a private van, a nice way to break us in slowly for the rest of the trip that will be done on public transport and we do have 2 train journey’s and I think another private van thrown in there for good measure.  Indika is an organized leader and this morning all our bags were colored coded with different colored ribbons to simplify our check in for the next 14 days.  It sounds like we hopefully won’t have much to do with our bags which is fine with me and especially now I don’t have to feel guilty that some poor Sri Lankan will do his back in lifting the ‘monster’.  I have decided to leave a bag of things at the hotel in Negombo, lucky I bought a bag in Thailand, and we have a free day in Colombo that I can come back and collect it if the hotel won’t send it down with a driver.  I really don’t think I will be needing scarfs, beanies, jeans, long sleeve tops, cardigans, IPad and jewelry.  So I officially I have clothing in 3 continents, with stuff left with Zeme in Africa, stuff with Shelly who is currently still in Thailand and my belongings in Australia.  Not a bad feat though huh!!  But I feel a whole lot better that my pack is definitely I rekon 10kg lighter which is awesome.

Our first stop of the morning, at 10am, was at the Asia Pacific Brewery that does brew beer but today we were there for the Arrack.  Arrack, also spelled arak, it is a distilled alcoholic drink typically produced in South Asia and Southeast Asia, made from either the fermented sap of coconut flowers.  The clear distillate may be blended, aged in wooden barrels, or repeatedly distilled and filtered depending upon the taste and color objectives of the manufacturer. Sri Lanka is the world's largest producer of coconut arrack.  Other than water, the entire manufacturing process revolves around the fermentation and distillation of a single ingredient, the sap of unopened flowers from a coconut palm (Cocos nucifera). Each morning at dawn, men known as toddy tappers move among the tops of coconut trees using connecting ropes not unlike tightropes. A single tree may contribute up to two liters per day.  Due to its concentrated sugar and yeast content, the captured liquid naturally and immediately ferments into a mildly alcoholic drink called "toddy" or occasionally "palm wine". Within a few hours after collection, the toddy is poured into large wooden vats, called "wash backs", made from the wood of teak or halmilla trees. The natural fermentation process is allowed to continue in the wash backs until the alcohol content reaches 5-7% and deemed ready for distillation.  We got to see the toddy tapper in action and it is amazing to see some-one up so high, these coconut trees were so tall, milk the flower and then travel via 2 ropes to the top of the next coconut tree with a bucket tied to his hip with the milked toddy.  So our sample taste test was fresh from the flower and I have to say it was disgusting.  I sniffed it to start with and reminded me of Araki in Ethiopia, which is never a good start, but I tried it and swallowed it (just) and I can add the tick in the box.  Apparently as it ferments and the arrack you can buy in the bars is a lot more refined but I don’t think it will be my drink of choice here.  No matter what country you go to they refer to the coconut trees as The Tree of Life and Sri Lanka is no different.  It is called "The Tree of Life" because of the endless list of products and by-products derived from its various parts. Food, shelter, fuel - name it, the coconut has it.  The coconut industry is considered a major dollar earner that provides livelihood to one-third of the country's population.  As we were getting ready to leave Gary wanted to have a look at the toddy’s knife that he uses in the trees and without even thinking as he pulled it out of the sheath he cut his hand on the rounded blade.  It was actually a pretty deep cut and after some water, some green natural stuff a Band-Aid and we were on our way.  First drama of the trip on day 1.  Gazza.

The scenery really changed as we left Negombo, tall, and I mean tall, coconut trees and canals that were built by the British full of water, known as the ‘wet’ side of the country and as we crossed the last river that had water in it to the ‘dry’ side of the country, it really lived up to its name.  It was dry as a bone, one match and the whole landscape would go up in a puff of smoke.  That and the heat as well, was making it incredibly hot and I don’t think I really knew how hot this tour was going to be.  Would I have still booked the trip knowing, that is a resounding yes, but I may have been able to be better prepared, mentally at least anyway.  Well I am here now and I will just have to get my head around that each day will be in the high 35C.  All the road signs we pass are in 3 languages.  The official language of the country which is Sinhalese, Tamil and also English.  Every time I see Sinhalese it looks like some wacky font on Word and some of the letters look like little pictures.  Every time I look at the signs it makes me smile, it is so cute.  I have no idea what it says as a lot of the shop signs are not in the triple language but it looks pretty groovy all the same. 

After lunch at 12 noon at a local restaurant we motored onto our final stop of the day in Anuradhapura just after 2pm.  The hotel was better than I expected and they had free Wi-Fi which sounds great but it was slow as a snail and could only be found in one small section, right near the chair at the far end of the covered verandah.  I was able to get my Hotmail emails ok; I just couldn’t get onto Facebook, which at the end of the day is not the be all and end all.  We are staying here for 2 nights and the upside is they have a pool and they have ice at the bar.  Similar to Africa it is a push (so far) that the soft drinks you get are cold and they also have the old fashioned recycle glass bottles, so you can’t take them away with you as they get cash back for the return of the empty ones.  There are the plastic bottle floating around in the supermarkets, but at the local shops they are all the glass ones. 

As soon as our bags were delivered to our beautifully AIR-CONDITIONED rooms we had 30 minutes to get ourselves ready as we were heading out to Mihintale for the afternoon and travelling by tuk tuk’s.  I am still a lover of tuk tuks and I think we will be riding in them quite often on this trip which is a kick for me as I think they are so cute.  So at 3.45pm we all climbed into a tuk tuk, 3 to each one so I was with Melissa and Serena, and we set off for the 30 minute ride.  I keep asking Indika about how tough the walk is, how many steps are there, as I want to make sure that I firstly will be able to keep up and secondly that I won’t be holding the whole group up as well.  The latter is probably my biggest concern.  But he seemed to think that this would be okay and to give a number that there are around 900 steps to get us to the top.  I think I could manage that, heat and all and as they were all steps, he said that your thongs would be okay to wear.  So half way to the site we had to pull over as we had got a flat tyre, on our tuk tuk!!!  The wheels are so small to start with and if you haven’t seen how a tyre is changed it is hilarious with the help of one of our fellow tuk tuk’s, 3 men lifted the vehicle up on 2 of its 3 wheels, while another changed the tyre and after 10 minutes the new wheel was on and we were all loaded in and ready to go.  Well, as they had tipped the tuk tuk we think they may have flooded something as it now wouldn’t start!!!  So we sat for another 10 minutes for the fuel to redistribute and then when he started it, we got the unmistakable noise of a lawn mower and we were back on our way.  Tuk tuk’s (or Bajaj in Ethiopia) are hardy little things.  They certainly get a work out in some of the Ethiopian Cities and still run strong. 

Mihintale is a mountain peak near Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka. It is believed by Sri Lankans to be the site of a meeting between the Buddhist monk Mahinda and King Devanampiyatissa which inaugurated the presence of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. It is now a pilgrimage site, and the site of several religious monuments and abandoned structures.  According to Dipavamsa and Mahavamsa, Thera Mahinda came to Sri Lanka from India on the full moon day of the month of Poson (June) and met King Devanampiyatissa and the people, and preached the doctrine. The traditional spot where this meeting took place is revered by the Buddhists of Sri Lanka. Therefore in the month of Poson (June) Buddhists make their pilgrimage to Anuradhapura and Mihintale. 

“Mahinda” was the son of Emperor Ashoka of India. King Ashoka embraced Buddhism after he was inspired by a very small monk named “Nigrodha.” The King who was in great misery after seeing the loss of life caused by his waging wars to expand his empire, was struck by the peaceful countenance of such a young monk. Meeting this young monk made a turning point in his life and he thereafter, renounced wars. He was determined to spread the message of peace, to neutralize the effects from the damages caused by him through his warfare. As a result both his son and daughter were ordained as Buddha disciples, and became enlightened as Arahats. In his quest to spread the message of peace instead of war, he sent his son Mahinda, to the island of Lanka, which was also known as “Sinhalé”. This island was being ruled by his pen friend King Devanampiyatissa. Thus, “Mahinda” was the exclusive Indian name which in Sinhalé, became commonly known as “Mihindu” in the local vernacular “Sinhala”.  In Sinhala Mihin-Thalé literally means the “plateau of Mihindu”. This plateau is the flat terrain on top of a hill from where Arahat Mihindu was supposed to have called King Devanampiyatissa, by the King’s first name to stop him shooting a deer in flight. Hence, “Mihin Thalé” is a specifically Sinhala term. This is said have been called Cetiyagiri or Sagiri, even thought it was more popularly known as Mihintale - the cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka.

When we finally made it to the first section of the site we climbed over 50 steps to have a look at The Cave of Arahant Mahinda located on a slope of a mountain is the cave known as Mihindu Guhawa or the cave of Arahant Mahinda, where he resided. With any sacred site we are required to wear appropriate clothing which is basically a top covering your shoulders and your shorts have to be beneath your knees.  Indika being organizes as he is had ‘temple clothes’ for those who didn’t comply which was a sarong type warp for the boys and a wrap-around skirt with extra-long ties for the girls that would even fit me!!!!  So once we were properly attired we went into one of the caves (there are 88 of them) but out of all of them this cave is the most famous and incidentally the most sacred to Buddhists is this cave with its flattened slab on which Thera Mahinda was accustomed to rest.  There was a great view from here of the Maha Stupor, which is where we were going to walk to next. 

After passing some of the ruins to the left of the courtyard we saw the refectory. The quadrangle is 19m in length and 7.6m in breadth and is surrounded by the storeroom. Since a part of a pipe line has been discovered here, it can be concluded that a systematic and well planned pipe borne scheme was provided. Two stone troughs can be seen here, which would have been used to store food close to the refectory where the monks used to eat.  There were 2000 of them at the height of the site.  On either side of the entrance to a building, are 2 inscriptions engraved on 2 large slabs of granite known as the Mihintale Stone Inscriptions. The rules and regulations pertaining to the administrative purposes of the monastery are engraved on these 2 stone slabs. This inscription installed by King Mihindu (956 - 976 AD) contains records of payments made to the service staff.  One of the stones had the pecking order of each monk in the community and from the top down to the lowest which happened to be the laundry monk and on the list the astrologer was higher than the doctor and the pharmacist was quite high on the list, like 5th from the top.  The other slab had the rules and regulations of what a monk could and could not do and if they were bad enough then they could be dismissed from service.  This is also where we picked up some ‘friends’.  They were official people to the site and they start to talk to you, ask you questions and before you know it they are helping you up steps, pointing out good photo opportunities you would have seen yourself and I knew that at the end of it all that they would require a tip.  My guy was called Rundu and I took it all in my stride, not really needing his help for the 244 steps to the next courtyard but then looking at what we were to climb next I knew I was going to need help and I am not sure if Rundu knew what he was getting himself into. 

Before entering the second courtyard, we had to remove our shoes and hats, as we were now in sacred territory.  We were told to bring socks with us, if the ground got to hot or the rocks and sand we were to walk on got too much for peoples feet, socks were permitted to wear if required.  There was a small stupor in the middle of the courtyard which was 2,500 years old, a large Buddha to our left, Invitation Rock in front of us and the Maha Stupor to our left.  So what is a stupa? A stupa is a Buddhist cult building , usually on an enclosed and richly decorated place.  Stupa evolved in India during Sungariket around 100 AD from the Indo-Aryan mounds after Mauryahärskaren Ashoka converted to Buddhism.  Central to a stupa, the dome-like , mainly massive hill or building that houses a shrine . On top of the relics is the so-called stem passing through the hemisphere top and ends in a spiral consisting of a number of rings and so called umbrellas. This hill is usually surrounded by a bar of the ornate porticoes of the cardinal directions . The entire composition to symbolize the universe .  A stupa is also a symbol of Buddha’s enlightened mind. Each part of the stupa symbolizes an aspect of the Buddha’s teachings.   There are 8 different types stupor which all correspond to different parts of the Buddha Shakyamuni's life. 

So we headed straight to Invitation Rock also known as Aradhana Gala, where the Arahant Mahinda landed.  It faces Maha Seya on a summit of a hill. Even during very windy weather pilgrims do not fail to visit this rock, which has iron railings to help them to climb. In the ancient books such as the Mahavamsa it is written that Mahinda came to Sri Lanka by travelling through the air. He came down and landed at Sri Lanka on the top of the Aradhana Gala.  I was all prepared for all the steps, but when we got to the base of the rock we had to climb, there were so stairs as such, but a rock surface that we had to scramble up with the help of a chained fence on our left and if you decided to stick with your friend (e.g. Rundu) then he was also used to haul my arse up the cliff face (slight exaggeration) but I needed to use both my hands and the rock was not smooth and in turn when you have on no shoes it is a different experience that is for sure and I did think for a second that I just may not make the top if it was all going to be like this.  But Rundu and Indika were very ‘supportive’ and kept me going and after the initial steep climb it wasn’t too bad, but I did  need the chain and Rundu to get me to the second last landing before seeing I had to lift myself up a section as there were no stairs and I said that I think I had come far enough, I could see everything from this level, but Rundu was determined to get me to the top, so I pushed myself and with a little help we made it right to the top with a magnificent view over the plains and of Buddha and the Maha Stupor.  So after a few photos from my personal photographer, what goes up must come down, but it always easier to come down and didn’t find it as daunting.  Rundu pointed out another photo opportunity on our way down through a crack in the rocks, but it was a little hairy for me to go into, so he took my camera and got the shot for me.  I told you he was going to earn his worth, whatever that tip decided to be….

The day was starting to fade so we bypassed the giant Buddha and climbed what were normal stairs to the top of the Maha Stupa.  The group had gone on which I am okay with, but I had Rundu showing me around now and he was calling himself my bodyguard.  This large stupa known as the Maha Saya is on the summit of the Mihintale hill, built by King Mahadathika Mahanaga (7-19 AD) the base of which is 41m in diameter. The stupa which was in a dilapidated condition has now been completely restored.  The stupas are not made to enter in, so they have shrines attached to them on the outside of the building.  This shrine had the first reclining Buddha on the trip and we were beckoned in by a monk and you are allowed to take photos as well.  Little did any of us know that on your way out you signed a guest book and then make a donation, how can you say no to a Monk? So I dipped in and at looking at the amounts before me contributed the same and then we were on our way back down the steps.  We were bypassed by a troop of monkeys that were on a mission and paid no heed to us on the way down.  This is another thing that we will have to get used to, monkeys, they are everywhere.   

So we made our way back to where our shoes were kept and this was the time to tip Rundu for the help he gave me today which I was totally happy to do.  My next move was a wrong one as I asked Indika what how much was a reasonable price.  I wanted to be fair and I hate under tipping as I think it is a slap in the face.  I know now that Indika couldn’t say, because no matter what he said and what I gave the guides Indika would be back and he doesn’t want to have bad vibes.  I did the same thing to Zeme once when I was in Ethiopia and I know that they can’t say-I should have known better.  So I had to go with what I thought and I gave 1,000LKR and I went to shake his hand and he said that it was his job to escort me to the bottom of the steps safely.  Okay so I must have given an acceptable tip.  I know the girls were struggling with their guys (they weren’t happy with their tip) but at the end of the day they should be happy with what they were given and if there is a set price they should be made aware of that.  At the end of the day they girls didn’t even need help (not like Granny here) and I told Mel not to get too upset about it all. 

By this time it was 6.15pm and we were losing light really fast as we had the 30 minute tuk tuk ride back to the hotel.  This meant that we would be heading back in the dark.  Normally this would not worry me, but in the dark in a tuk tuk, this was a little worrisome and with good reason as we had a close call to a truck at one point and a 4WD at another point that caused screeching behind us but we didn’t hear a smash and decided we all made it out of that one…..and alive which is always a bonus!

Dinner was at 7pm and we were heading to a local restaurant tonight.  Talk about a busy day and we were all just about pooped.  We were back in the tuk tuks again but this time it was only a 10 minute ride to from the hotel.  It was a typical ‘Asian’ looking restaurant with the front doors being the roller door type, the tables set up along the wall with plastic chairs to sit in.  The fans were going full ball but it really was an oven in there.  So after ordering our drinks we were then called to the front of the shop where there was a small BBQ style hot plate set up and we were shown how to make chapatti, we got to taste test and then we were show how to make egg chapatti and taste test and then we were shown how to make chop chapatti and taste that and then we could order one of the 3 for dinner.  I have to say I am enjoying the beer here and I washed it all down with a cold Lion.  The soft drink may not be cold but they somehow always manage to have cold beer.  I was the last to get my dinner and after waiting all that time it was too spicy for me to eat.  I don’t mind a little spice but this thing had bits of chili flakes that were just too fiery for my taste buds.  We were also given some curry potatoes so I just made sure that I filled up on that instead.  There was an option to walk back or take the tuk tuk and the girls and I and Gary and Sue decided to catch the tuk tuk’s and ended up having a tuk tuk race on the way home to which I am happy to report wee gals won.  I was going to head straight to bed but England were playing Sri Lanka in the 20 Twenty cricket that is currently on in Colombo, so I stayed to watch that till the end and then it was bed time for this little duck.  We have a bike ride tomorrow and another big day and I am going to need my rest.  So a MASSIVE first day on tour and the group is getting along well.  I have a feeling this is going to be a great tour.           


Thursday, October 4, 2012

MEET MY NEW INTREPID GROUP OF SRI LANKA


WEATHER: Hot and steamy 31C

HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY: Met my guide this morning-Indika

BUMMER OF THE DAY: New group jitters

WORD OF THE DAY:  Intrepid Guides ROCK

THANKS TO ALL MY WATER CHARITY DONATIONS SO FAR:
Lisa Jones, Lisa Farrugia, Michele McEachern, Jude Mills, Julia Elton-Bott, Pamela L. Zander Suhr, Robert Poole, Simon Hooker, Jamie Anderson, Paul Mills, Liz Jones and Kaitlin Ellis xx

This afternoon I meet my fellow travelers for the next 2 weeks.  I got a phone call this morning at 9am saying that I would be staying in my room and that someone would be joining me sometime today-woo hoo I didn’t have to pack up all my stuff and move.  They did ask me to come downstairs and sign new paperwork for it was an Intrepid accommodation night tonight.  So I went and had breakfast and then stopped by reception on my way back to my room firstly to collect my washing and sign these papers.  Well as it turned out I have to move rooms, but the room was being cleaned so she would call me when it was done and the bellboy would come for my bag. 

My Intrepid leader was in reception, so it was nice to meet him this morning.  His name is Indika and he looks quite sweet.  I was given some paperwork to fill in before the meeting this afternoon and if I had any questions to just ask.  I did ask about an ATM and he said we will stop by a bank tomorrow and if I needed any money he could give me some now and I could pay him back tomorrow.  That’s nice, but as it was the hotel took credit card so I could settle my bill on that and keep the cash, and I will just get some more from the ATM tomorrow.  So back to the reception desk I then paid for my meals for the last 3 days and also my washing which all came to 9180LKR and my washing was 2238LKR of that which is around 17AUD and I am thinking that is quite expensive, I think I have been ripped off there, but with it all done and in a bag next to me I really don’t have a leg to stand on do I.  So I paid it all up and went back to my room to pack all my crap.  Now knowing how hot it is here I don’t need some of the clothes in my bag and was thinking of leaving some stuff here at the hotel, which usually wouldn’t be an issue but we are not coming back here to Negombo, we are staying at Colombo for the last night and my flight leaves, LEAVES at 7.20am on departure day.  I may speak to Indika this afternoon and see if maybe we can get the stuff sent to the hotel in Colombo this afternoon maybe?  We’ll see.  I got the call at 11.30am that I could now change rooms, so with the bellboy showing me to the room, we passed 3 people on the stairs and I just had a feeling that maybe one of them was my roomie.  We turned up to the room and my roomie had already left with the key, so I think it must have been them, so we headed back to reception and I saw the ladies and the gentleman we had passed and I asked if one of them was in room 23 and Lenore piped up she was.  So I introduced myself and then headed back to the room as they headed for lunch.  Didn’t get a good vibe, but we won’t be judging any books by their covers just yet.

The new room was similar to my last one, maybe mine was a little nicer but the problem being there are NO power points in the room that I have a charger for.  The TV and fridge have plugs and are those funky triple holes and there is a spare triple hole in the bathroom, no European plugs to be seen.  Useless.   So I will need to ask reception of they have an adapter and I may have to find one on my travels if they exist.  I can’t not have flat electronics and I also can’t be the only person in the world to not have an adapter for Sri Lankan plugs.  At the end of the day as long as the air-conditioning is working and I can somehow charge my gadgets, what else could I possibly need?  The afternoon was spent at the restaurant where I had lunch, loaded a blog and back to the room for a LLD (little lie down) before our meeting at 5.30pm.  I wonder what kind of group we are going to have.

So we all met at reception at 5.30pm and then Indika took us upstairs to one of the function rooms (air-conditioned) and ran through the tour, the do’s, the don’ts, what to expect blah blah blah.  Points from the meeting that I thought interesting:
·       4 years ago if you had of come to Sri Lanka it would have been a different country as they were still fighting a 30 year war with the Tamils and the Singhalese.  60,000 men lost their lives during this period, all over pieces of land-isn’t it always territorial or religious reasons these things start!?
·      Some of our hotels/guest houses we will have to pay 500LDK (4AUD) for the air-conditioning –YES YES
·      The accommodations will be simple but clean-anything else will be a bonus
·       Look after your keys as some places DON’T have master key- Uh Oh
·       If you have Mossie coils in your room make sure they are near anything flammable-death by mossie coil
·       Sri Lankans eat with their hands-good practice for me for Ethiopia
·       Phone calls from phone centres are .40c a minute-from hotels 1.20 a minute
·       Wi-Fi connections sound promising at most places-internet cafes are 77c for an hour……
·       There are 3 main languages in Sri Lanka-Singhalese, Tamil and English
·       Costs for meals not included are approx.: 600LKR (4.60AUD) breakfast, 800LKR (6AUD) for lunch and 1100LKR (8.50AUD) for dinner.  Soft drinks are 100LKR (75cAUD) and beers are 250LKR (1.92AUD)

Indika briefly went into the Tamil Tigers and their history, but says that it is not so dangerous now but I am sure everyone has heard of Tamil Tigers.  The Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam; commonly known as the LTTE or the Tamil Tigers was a separatist militant organization that was based in northern Sri Lanka. Founded in May 1976 it waged a violent secessionist and nationalist campaign to create an independent state in the north and east of Sri Lanka for Tamil people. This campaign evolved into the Sri Lankan Civil War, which ran from 1983 until 2009, when the LTTE was defeated by the Sri Lankan Military.  At the height of its power, the LTTE possessed a well-developed militia and carried out many high-profile attacks, including the assassinations of several high-ranking Sri Lankan and Indian politicians. The LTTE is the only separatist militant organization to assassinate two world leaders: Sri Lankan President Ranasinghe Premadasa in 1993 and former Indian Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi in 1991. Civilian massacres, suicide bombings and acts of ethnic cleansing were integral parts of its pursuit to create a monoethnic Tamil Eelam. The LTTE pioneered the use of suicide belts, and used light aircraft in some of its attacks. As a result of its tactics, it is currently proscribed as a terrorist organization by 32 countries, but has extensive support amongst the Sri Lankan Tamil diaspora in Europe and North America, and amongst some Tamils in India. 

I like the way that Indika phrased that sometimes we will have to sacrifice our own happiness for the sake of the group.  That’s a nice way to put it.  Sacrifice our own happiness.  I like it.  There is a Buddhist saying that the most important time is NOW and the most important person is you.  We were also offered a tipping kitty which I love the idea of, so we all put in 3800LKR (29AUD) for the 15 days and then Indika looks after all the tips for us.  Yes please, that sounds great.  There were a few murmurs on this from the group and I think tipping really is tough on every single traveler.  It can be uncomfortable, awkward and everyone has an opinion on whether to tip or not.  I am a tipper, if people deserve it then I tip well and if they don’t I am sad to say I am still a tipper, but I may not leave the full amount unless the service has been super bad, then I won’t leave a penny.  Each to their own and at the end of the day it is what you think they should get and it shouldn’t matter what one person gives to the next.  I just get upset when guides/leaders have gone out of their way to help in some form and then are not tipped properly…… but that is just me. 

So there are 12 of us on the trip plus Indika makes 13.  I like that size group, not too many and not too small.  It is an older crowd, but having not spoken to the 2 young girls from Northern Ireland, we have had a laugh during the meeting, so I think I may have found some partners for the trip and the 2 kiwi’s Gary and Sue (who are living in the UK) seem like they will also be good value.  All the others seem nice, but I just haven’t yet had a chance to know them properly yet.  But it is always nice to get a connection straight up with people and know that you are on the same wave length and have people you will enjoy this magic experience with.  I have wanted to come to Sri Lanka for a long time so it is pretty cool that I am here now and after meeting the group, our tour leader and the Sri Lankan people I think I am going to have a marvelous time for the next 2 weeks.  I am still worried about this walk for 1.5 days, I will need to speak to Indika about that, but otherwise the itinerary looks amazing. 

I would also like to share some excerpts from our welcome notes.
Please tell me if you have any problems, you feel unwell or anything happens of which I should be aware.  Unfortunately nobody has taught me the skills of mind reading yet…..
Please always be positive in your approach to every situation.  We want to create enough good Karma to stop wars.  If you have a problem or something you want to complain about please come to me.  Others on the trip do not want to hear about it.  But I do.

In return for your co-operation I will give you 110%

Culture shock, like altitude sickness can hit anyone, you may suffer mild symptoms of disorientation and alienation to serious loss of confidence, which may have you acting strangely childlike. DO NOT PANIC.  This is not bad this is you simply adjusting to your surroundings.  A little time, knowledge and experience will soon have you eating with your hands and chanting with the monks.

You are embarking on an adventure, and may have spent a lot of time and money getting this far.  From now on, I recommend you expect the unexpected.  Leave your Western ideals at home as there is no place in Sri Lanka for them.  Enjoy the difference after all this is the reason why we travel in the first place.

I am offering you a trip of a lifetime-it’s up to you to enjoy it-Lets go make some memories.

I like all that and it was on a list that contained a few more ‘words of wisdom’.  The meeting concluded an hour later at 6.30pm and then we were all meeting at 7pm to catch tuk tuks to a restaurant for dinner.  Dinner was on a beach. Literally our feet in the sand and because we were next to the ocean I decided to go with grilled prawns and they were delicious.  I am not sure how I am going to go with the staple food of Sri Lanka being curry, but as long as they aren’t too spicy I will be able to handle it, but I am not sure I can do 15 days of the stuff.  It takes me back to my India trip when Drew and I had never eaten Indian food before our 16 days trip and then when we got home we never ate Indian food again.  16 days was too much for me and I got violently ill on my last day and have pretty much sworn me off Indian fare for life.  I got to know Serena and Melissa better over dinner and we all decided to walk back to the hotel, which was only 15 minutes away passing a church that was having a large outdoor mass as part of a religious ceremony that was happening all week.  So we watch for a few minutes before getting back to the hotel at 9pm and I retired to air AIR-CONDITIONED room to read and repack.  I have decided that the monster is too BIG for public transport on this trip and have decided to leave a bunch of stuff that I will definitely not need while I am here including a beanie, gloves, jeans, cardigan, dress tops, IPad just to name a few things.  By the time I had used the bag I had bought in Thailand to house all this stuff I seriously think I have taken at least 10kg out of the monster and I have also detached the front backpack leaving that behind and it totally looks like a new bag and not so scary and monster looking.  I will then either come back to Negombo to collect the bag or we get it delivered to the Colombo hotel when we get back, but either way I am so glad I did it and now have a spring in my step!

So I have now met my new group and I think I am going to be okay. 

I’m looking forward to this trip, even though it is hot as an oven here and can’t wait to hit the road tomorrow.