Life is about the people you meet and the things you create with them

Live your dream and share your passion

When you eat, appreciate every last bite

Some opportunities only come only once-seize them

Laugh everyday

Believe in magic

Love with all your heart

Be true to who you are

Smile often and be grateful

…and finally make every moment count

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Sunday, January 13, 2013

MAGNIFICENT MOUNTAINOUS MADEIRA


I woke at 6.45am this morning.  I had a day tour to catch and I was looking forward to getting off the ship.  The rocking and rolling was getting to me.  We were supposed to arrive into Funchal (Fun-chal) at 8am and we didn’t dock till 8.45am.  Doesn’t really look good for our first port of call on the itinerary and we were late.  The weather didn’t seem bad last night, so not really sure of the reason as to why, but the good thing is that sunrise was at 8.12am and we got to see an amazing sunrise over the water as the ball of red popped out from what looked like behind the ocean.  There aren’t many places where you can see a sun rise over water and this was a magic one, and really I don’t think there can be a disappointing sunrise in this whole world-the hope of a new day is born and another grateful day for me to be on this planet.

Costa was also in dock-our nemesis had also arrived.  I think there is always some unspoken rivalry when you see other ships on a similar itinerary.  I remember being in the Caribbean and there were 4 other ships in port, but we were on the Oasis of the Seas-so we trumped them all anyway, but as we pulled out of the Bahamas our tour director told us all to go out on deck and we would give them all a cheery wave goodbye and with the sound of the very loud ships horn we all screamed and waved as we pulled out.  It was so COOL.  I’ll never forget that and all the smiles of everyone around me.  What a thrill.  One of the ships tried to reply, I think it may have been a Carnival ship replying, but they had nothing on us with a ship of 6500 people versus 2000.  I must say that once we dock, it doesn’t take the staff long to get us all manoeuvred.  My tour was leaving from the Stardust Theatre and once our staff member got the okay on the radio, they start calling the tours by tour code and name and then the groups peel left and right of the theatre to the exits, for our tickets to be checked and a sticker given to us to tell us what coach we would be on for the day.  From there we walk along the promenade to the middle set of stairs and we descend 2 flights to the gangway, to have our ships card scanned that we were exiting the ship and then there were more staff to direct you to the right coach.  Considering the move approximately 500-1000 people using this method, from leaving the theatre to driving away on the coach was around 20 minutes.  Not bad at all.  There was the usual photo opportunity as you come off the ship, and a lot of people were saying no and I felt sorry for the staff and the photographer, so I stopped for a pose with no intention of buying the photo-really I did it just to help out the guys-and I will just go and check it later tonight to see how it turned out-really, just for a look……….. really……

Madeira is a Portuguese archipelago that lies just under 400 km north of TenerifeCanary Islands, in the north Atlantic Ocean and an outermost region of the European Union.  Madeira was discovered by Portuguese sailors in the service of Henry the Navigator in 1419, and settled after 1420. The archipelago is considered to be the first territorial discovery of the exploratory period of the Portuguese Age of Discovery.  Today, it is a popular year-round resort, being visited every year by about one million tourists, noted for its Madeira wine, flowers, landscapes and embroidery artisans, as well as for its annual New Year celebrations that feature the largest fireworks show in the world, as officially recognised by the Guinness World Records, in 2006.  The main harbour in Funchal is the leading Portuguese port in cruise liner dockings, being an important stopover for commercial and trans-Atlantic passenger cruises between Europe, the Caribbean and North America. 

The first settlers began colonizing the islands around 1420 or 1425; the three Captains-major had led the first settlement, along with their respective families, a small group of minor nobility, people of modest conditions and some prisoners, who could be trusted to work the lands. To gain the minimum conditions for the development of agriculture, they had to rough-hew a part of the dense forest of laurisilva and to construct a large number of canals (levadas), since in some parts of the island there was excess water, while in others water was scarce. During this period, fish constituted about half of the settlers' diet, together with vegetables and fruits cultivated from small cleared parcels of land. Initially, these colonists produced wheat for their own subsistence, but later the quantity cultivated was sufficient to begin exporting wheat to continental Portugal.  In 23 September 1433, the name Madeira Island, or literally island of wood, began to appear in the first documents and maps. The name given to the islands corresponded to the large dense forests of native laurisilva trees that populated the island during the settlement.  However, when grain production began to fall, the ensuing crisis forced Henry the Navigator, as principal benefactor of the islands, to plant other commercial crops. The planting of sugarcane, and later Sicilian sugar beet, allowed the introduction of the "sweet salt" (as sugar was known) into Europe, where it was a rare and popular spice. These specialised plants, and their associated industrial technology, created one of the major revolutions on the islands and fuelled Portuguese industry. The expansion of sugar plantations in Madeira began in 1455, using advisers from Sicily and financed by Genoese capital (it would become an integral part of the island economy until the 17th century). The accessibility of Madeira attracted Genoese and Flemish traders who were keen to bypass Venetian monopolies.  By 1480 Antwerp had some seventy ships engaged in the Madeira sugar trade, with the refining and distribution concentrated in Antwerp. By the 1490s Madeira had overtaken Cyprus as a producer of sugar.

After the 17th century, as sugar production shifted to BrazilSão Tomé and Príncipe and elsewhere, Madeira's most important product became its wine. The British occupied Madeira as a result of the Napoleonic Wars, a consented occupation starting in 1807 and concluding in 1814 when the island was returned to Portugal.  Nevertheless, the island was a British Crown Colony for four months, and Britain had intentions of keeping it after the Napoleonic Wars, owing to its strategic position, but plans for its permanent annexation were abandoned shortly after the start of the occupation.  On 1 July 1976, following the democratic revolution of 1974, Portugal granted political autonomy to Madeira, celebrated on Madeira Day. The region now has its own government and legislative assembly.

The archipelago of Madeira is located 520 km from the African coast and 1,000 km from the European continent (approximately a one-and-a-half hour flight from the Portuguese capital of Lisbon).  The archipelago itself is a series of oceanic volcanic islands that date back to the Miocene (about 20 million years ago), and constructed from a hotspot in the Earth's crust of the African Tectonic Plate. Madeira, and the smaller Desertas Islands, are the youngest of these islands (dating from 4.6 to 0.7 million years), while Porto Santo, the smaller of the main islands, and is the oldest (approximately 14 million years).  The island of Madeira is at the top of a massive shield volcano that rises about 6 km from the floor of the Atlantic Ocean, on the Tore underwater mountain range.  Madeira Island represents 93% of the archipelago's area, with 90% of the landmass above 500 m. It is the largest island of the group with an area of 741 km2 and a length of 57 km while approximately 22 km at its widest point with a coastline of 150 km. The island of Madeira is wet in the northwest but dry in the southeast. In the 16th century the Portuguese started building levadas or aqueducts to carry water to the agricultural regions in the south. The most recent were built in the 1940s. Madeira is very mountainous, and building the levadas was difficult and often sentenced criminals or slaves were used. Many are cut into the sides of mountains, and it was also necessary to dig 40 km of tunnels, some of which are still accessible.  Today the levadas not only supply water to the southern parts of the island but provide hydro-electric power. There are over 2,170 km of levadas and they provide a remarkable network of walking paths. Some provide easy and relaxing walks through beautiful countryside, but others are narrow, crumbling ledges where a slip could result in serious injury or death. 

For such a small island it has a lot amazing history and the second we left the port and started to ascend the mountains it was also a beautiful island.  I had no perceptions on what to expect, no idea so to see the stunning views as we wound our way through small villages, literally wound-the roads are so windy and at points not wide enough for a bus to pass a car on a bend without one of us stopping to let one through I started to get a feel for the island.  It really is hilly; the road we were travelling on was basically on the side of a mountain.  I wonder how many accidents they have where the cars verge off the cliffs of these roads.  I couldn’t imagine driving them at night time.  Scary.  All the villages are set up on the side of mountains and they all have terraces where they grow bananas, grapes and other agriculture depending on the altitude.  Everywhere you looked was mountains, homes located on them and terraces.  I dong think I would like to live here as everything looked like it was going to be an uphill walk.  Everywhere is uphill.  UPHILL.  Besides that the island has a nice feel, a country, clean and modest feel about it.
Our first view of the tour was Câmara de Lobos.  The location of the modern town is believed to be the original landing point for the Portuguese discoverer João Gonçalves Zarco, who is credited with the discovery of the Madeira Islands. When the explorer disembarked in this area (1419), he observed a thin cliff that extended into the ocean, and another cliff face that formed an amphitheatre-like harbour that could shelter ships from Atlantic storms. There Zarco and his men also found a large colony of marine animals that would become the reason for naming this area Câmara de Lobos.  The name, lobos, is a Portuguese derivation for sea-lions, which were the animals discovered by Zarco and his men in the sheltered bay. Because of the large colony of these animals, the area was baptised câmara dos lobos.  The town is also known for Winston Churchill paintings as it is apparently where he got inspiration for his paintings after a visit here in the 1950’s. 

We stopped at 9.45an for a view point photo at Pico da Torre.  This had an amazing view over 30% of the island and also a bird’s eye view of Camara de Lobos.  A well-known stop as there were also 10 other coaches, taxis and rental cars all atop the lookout but it didn’t deter from the view and it was magic.  At 10.20am we stopped again for the highest view we would have of the day and which also happened to be at a small restaurant.  They had a tray ready of the local, traditional drink called Poncha for us to sample and if we liked it we could buy bottles of the stuff.   Poncha is a traditional alcoholic drink from the island of Madeira, made with distilled alcohol made from sugar cane juice, honey, sugar, lemon rind and with different fruit juices according to the version of Poncha, but traditionally lemon juice is used.  It is mixed together with a mixing tool created in Madeira officially called a mexelote but more commonly known as a Caralhinho (little cock), it is in fact a type of muddler created in Madeira. Caipirinha is based on Poncha but tastes nothing like it let me tell you.  I had a single sip and the stuff was vile.  It tasted like tequila to me and I really had to make an effort to drink the last remaining but, as all the glasses were going back to the try empty.  Surely I am not the ONLY one who doesn’t like it-am I?  It is said in Madeira that Poncha cures the common cold and people are encouraged to drink it if they have cold like symptoms and I can understand why.  That stuff would kill anything in its way-ughhhhh.  I have to rate that up there with the Araki that I had in Ethiopia-actually to be fair, Araki was so much more vile-just thinking about it now turns my stomach.  The drink may be based on an Indian drink called Pãnch/Panch, in Hindi Panch which means five and the drink was originally made with five ingredients: alcohol, sugar, lemon, water, and tea or spices. This is also where the English drink Punch has originated from.

There were also bottles of Madeira for sale, of the wine variety, but no samples unfortunately.  The island is also known for its own unique wine that is produced locally.  Madeira is a fortified wine produced in a variety of styles ranging from dry wines which can be consumed on their own as an aperitif, to sweet wines more usually consumed with dessert. Cheaper versions are often flavoured with salt and pepper for use in cooking.  The islands of Madeira have a long wine making history, dating back to the Age of Exploration when Madeira was a standard port of call for ships heading to the New World or East Indies. To prevent the wine from spoiling, neutral grape spirits were added. On the long sea voyages, the wines would be exposed to excessive heat and movement which transformed the flavour of the wine. This was discovered by the wine producers of Madeira when an unsold shipment of wine returned to the islands after a round trip. Today, Madeira is noted for its unique winemaking process which involves heating the wine up to temperatures as high as 60 °C for an extended period of time and deliberately exposing the wine to some levels of oxidation. Because of this unique process, Madeira is a very robust wine that can be quite long lived even after being opened-our guide said even up to 10 years after a bottle has been opened it would still be good to drink and would even taste better. 

From here we were only a 2 minute drive to Cabo Girão which is a lofty sea cliff located along the southern coast of the island.  Cabo Girão is a popular lookout point, and starting point for hikers. It is a diamond-shaped sea-cliff escarpment from 560 metres to 589 metres above sea level.  Cabo Girão lies between two river-valleys that flow into the Atlantic Ocean. The escarpment/cliffs extend approximately one kilometre in length of the cliff and reaches from approximately three kilometres between the urban sprawl of Câmara de Lobos and the river-valley of Quinta Grande.  Although brochures explain that it is the second highest cliff in Europe, at least five European cliffs Hornelen at 860 metres, Cape Enniberg at 750 metres, Vixía Herbeira at 613 metres, Preikestolenat 604 metres and Slieve League at 601 metres are higher. Hmmm funny how our guide didn’t mention that small fact.  Her spiel was it is the highest in Europe and the second highest in the world after Taiwan where their cliff is 720m above sea level.  There has to be some misinterpretation on some-ones behalf somewhere.  You only had to walk about 5 minutes to get to the cliff face and there was a glass floor that extended over the cliff-it was pretty cool and with such a clear day we had a magnificent view, not only of the drop and the terraced fields below us but also up the coastline as far as the eye could see.  MAGNIFICENT.  The terraced fields located below the sheer cliffs were at one time only accessible by boat. In August 2003, a cable car was installed on the slope of the cliff so farmers could reach these low-lying fields.  It was busy here as well, with other coaches all doing the same thing as us, but not so much so that I could get all the photos I wanted without too much hassle and I have to say that was the highlight of the day by far. 

It was only a half day tour, so we had one more stop before heading back to the ship and that was at a sleepy fishing village of Ribeira Brava.  It is located along the southern coast approximately in the centre.  In 2001 its population was about 12500 inhabitants.   The Ribeira Brava ravine and river valley extends 10-12m from the slopes of the west-central mountains of Madeira. Its waters provide the primary sources of drinking-water (a small reservoir collect surface run-off) to the area and electricity to the island of Madeira. Approximately ten tributaries feed this river, whose course ends in the Serra de Água, and much later empties into the Atlantic along the village's coast.  We were the only coach here at this small village and we were given an hour to look around, have a coffee and visit the church.  The primary industry for the village, besides fishing is handicraft and there were some beautiful handmade lace products ranging from table clothes, napkins, bags, hankies, doilies and pretty much anything that could be stitched and laced they had it.  If my mum was alive she would have LOVED this place, it was right up her alley.  It’s not really my thing, but I did find what I think maybe the purchase of the cruise and that is a woven purse.  I had bought an exact replica when I was in Lisbon last year in June and it was big enough I could fit my camera, phone and passport in and I loved it to death, literally loved it to death.  It lasted till I got to Buenos Aries in February and after nursing a rip in the purse that I had persisted with for around 5 weeks-it was time to let it go.  It was that good, I couldn’t toss it and I sent it home.  Sad I know, but I have found an exact same one here today-but instead of having Portugal hand stitched on it, it has Madeira.  What a score and I am so happy.  Sad again I know.  After my AWESOME buy and a look in the church I did manage to stumble on the post office!  Now this was also great as I was able to get my Globetrotters Book stamped with my Madeira stamp.  I had to buy a stamp to go in the book and then he was happy to ink stamp it with the date and place.  You little beauty.  There is a sense of accomplishment when I get that book stamped and I would really, be really sad if anything happened to it.  After an ice-cram in a café that looked directly onto the Atlantic Ocean we were back in the coach for the 20 minutes back to the ship.  We bypassed the small windy roads and took the major highway that runs from the north to the south of the island.  We must have passed through 9 tunnels getting is back and the views were just as good the whole way.  Every time we popped out of a tunnel we were witness to some amazing view, whether it be hundreds of banana trees, terraces, villages on the side of mountains, it really is an incredible island.

We were dropped back at 2pm to the ship.  The Costa ship does look good.  It think it maybe one of the new ships, the Deliziosa.  I was still loyal to my Norwegian Spirit and after asking for permission to walk to the end of the dock and get a picture of ‘our’ girl I was back on the ship and heading to lunch, I was famished.  I went back to my cabin to relax for a few hours and then I was back on deck at 5pm for our departure.  I love this time of day when the ships pull out.  It is generally just before sunset and you can get some incredible photos of the ship, the port and also the sun on the water and today was no different.  There was a nip to the air but nothing too uncomfortable and we actually left a few minutes early AND before Costa.  I guess if we are all on board ready to go, why not.  Try and avoid a late arrival tomorrow into Santa Cruz aka Tenerife and our first of 2 stops in the Canary Islands.  I enjoyed my hour on deck listening to tunes till Madeira was a speck and the sun had lost all its’ glory’. 

As a creature of habit, I think we all are in some way-I was at the Theatre at 7pm to get to ‘my’ seat which is now officially 6 rows from the front and smack bang in the middle.  Besides getting there early to get ‘my’ seat it also avoids the debacle when people sit on the ends and there are seats still in the middle and people have to ask them to stand, for them to shimmy past them to get to the middle seats.  In people’s defence there are some older folks that this would be an issue for, but people who are more mobile should be moving in.  It was like on the coach today.  I like sitting at the back anyway, but I should be taking these seats as I am young and can shuffle my way to the back.  It’s great actually as I had the whole back seat to myself and no-one sat in front of me either.  A perfect way to enjoy a day tour.  The show tonight was a magician called Cripton and his wife Renata.  He had a few big titles to his name including winner of the first prize for Great Illusions and the Grand Prix of the Italian Magical Club, 1° Prize "Magic Act and Great Illusions", 3° Prize "The Magic Hands" and last year he won Magician of the Year 2012 which is up there with David Copperfield, Roy and Siegfried and Chriss Angel.  It was performance that is for sure.  He did a lot of hand waving and flourishes, the spotlights helped I think with some tricks and the crescendo of the music all added to the act.  He was very much a showman always asking for the claps but I do have to say there were a few tricks there that I just could not work out and he pulled them off effortlessly.  There were 2 that really struck me over his hour long show and they were: one he got 2 people from the audience and it was using balls and he started with the ball in the hand and then it was gone oldie but as the trick went on the balls were ending up in the volunteers hands.  That’s impressive.  How does he do that?  The other one was he got an older gentleman from the audience that had on a jacket.  Cripton then had his hands tied behind his back, Renata tied the knots and then the volunteer tied some as well and then there was a larger rope that was tied around his neck and then his arms with the help of Renata and said volunteer again.  Then old man was blindfolded and they both went behind a curtain and a minute later Cripton was wearing the old guy’s jacket under all the ties.  Now how does he do that?  It was a show of great illusions and as much as I hate over the top acting I was astonished and I enjoyed his show of escapology and mentalism.  He is doing 2 more shows on the ship, different from tonight, so I will make sure I go and see them. 

That was my day in Madeira and what a great day I had.  I’m looking forward to Tenerife tomorrow. 

I think I may have found my sailing mojo again. 


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