Life is about the people you meet and the things you create with them

Live your dream and share your passion

When you eat, appreciate every last bite

Some opportunities only come only once-seize them

Laugh everyday

Believe in magic

Love with all your heart

Be true to who you are

Smile often and be grateful

…and finally make every moment count

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Thursday, October 11, 2012

MY STACK INVOLVING A TUK TUK AND A BIKE


WEATHER: BLOOMING HOT and 36C

HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY: Not getting run over with the tuk tuk after I fell off

BUMMER OF THE DAY: Falling off my bike

WORD OF THE DAY: Tuk tuk crash

THANKS TO ALL MY WATER CHARITY DONATIONS SO FAR:
Jo Braddish

DISTANCE TRAVELLED: 121km

BUDDHA QUOTE FOR THE DAY:
“When you realize how perfect everything is you will tilt your head back and laugh at the sky”

We leave Anuradhapura today and head to the town of Polonnaruwa.  No sleep in’s on this trip so far with my alarm going off at 5.55am, breakfast at 6.20am and then our private bus arrived to take us the 15 minutes to the public bus station and for our 4 hour bus ride.  Indika got us there a little early to make sure that we would get seats, as it can be a busy bus and who wants to stand for 4 hours.  Our bags were loaded onto the back seat of the bus and we were free to sit anywhere we wanted.  The seats we in a 2 seat, aisle and then a 3 seat.  I chose the very small 2 seat thinking if I when we had to get off the bus, one person to climb over was better than 2.  I also assessed which windows opened, which seats didn’t have windows and then chose the seat where I could have an open window to myself so I could take pictures while we were on the move.  It is so important where to sit on these drives not just for the photos but to have the breeze on my face as I was expecting the bus to be hot with the weather we have had the last few days.  We waited for 45 minutes and with about 10 minutes to go I got a small Sri Lankan guy sit next to me which I was fine with but there were 50 other seats still available on the bus.  Okay, so he wanted to sit next to a ‘western’ girl.  I get it.  So I try and do the right thing and say hello, ask if he speaks English (it was a no) so I took a self take photo of us and after that he points to my Ethiopian bangles, still not cottoning on I tell him they are from Africa, and then he points to my Moroccan ring to which I say Africa also and then he mimes to out the ring on his finger-ahhhh penny drops, he wants some of my jewelry.  So I say no with a smile and put in my ear phones.  I tried speaking to the locals and he asks for my stuff.  We left on time, which is apparently unusual and started the slow drive out of town.  Slow being the operative word as we stopped at a billion stops on the way out of town touting for people as we went.  We did pick up some people, but so far so good in relation to the amount of people on the bus.  If it is a male getting on or off the bus, it doesn’t completely stop it just slowly rolls to let the person on or off but for ladies I noticed that the bus would come to a complete stop, oh and for the oldies….. 

There is a driver and a ticket guy on the public busses.  People can get on via the front or back doors and they just go and take a seat and then after a while the ticket guy will come down the aisle, he recognizes the new people, they pay, he gives them a hand written ticket and then scans the crowd for the new comers.  He doesn’t come down at every stop; he makes a trip when there are enough newbies on the bus.  Even when the bus got busy after about 2 hours-he just pushes his way through the throng to collect the fares.  He had a system, the money went into the back of the receipt book, it was windy with all the windows open, the receipts looked they had been pre written up and he was done.  On our way out of town we also stopped at a roadside shrine where an offering is made for a safe journey and then we are back on the road again.  Literally the guy jumped off the bus, opened the door, took his shoes off, said his prayer for us all, shoes back on, him back on the bus and it was all done in 3 minutes.  Well if it keeps us safe then I am all for the ‘unofficial’ stop, but them the people we pick up and drop off are just by the road with no ‘official’ stops as such except through a few of the larger towns.  This bus had a flat screen TV and after we had cleared the city limits it was turned on and a version of Sri Lankan MTV came on and the speakers for the bus were not far from my seat and even with my headphones on I could hear the beat of the music.  It’s one way to keep people entertained.  As the bus filled up and people stood in the aisle it was hard to see the TV screen anyway, so I stuck to looking out my window watching the scenery passing me by.  Sri Lankans seem to be so friendly and are happy to wave and say hello as we pass and stop.  They have such warm and friendly smiles and it makes me happy to get a wave and a smile in return.  We had a lengthy stop at 9.40am and there were a herd of sellers that come on to sell you food from corn, to nuts, to fried chilies and dhal.  Indika bought some fried dhal for us to all try and I have to say it was delicious.  I skipped on the fried chili though but Christine rekons it wasn’t that spicy.  Yeah right according to Ms. Spice herself.  There was another stop at 10.30am for a toilet stop, not bad for a public bus.  The rule is if you want to get off the bus you need to leave something on your seat so nobody nicks it.  Since I was sitting on my own and the others were rows in front of me I had nothing short of my handbag to leave, so I didn’t end up getting off the bus.  I didn’t need to use the toilet but I would have loved a cold drink.  So I resorted to what I had in my bag and that was 2 Bertie Beetle chocolates that my God-daughters had bought to Thailand for me, better than nothing and a little disappointed no-one thought to ask if I wanted anything.  Never mind.  I am sure it wasn’t intentional. 

We arrived into Polonnaruwa at 11.45am.  There is an urgency to get all the bags off as quick as we can so as to not hold the bus up and this was done with the boys helping Indika shove them all off.  Our guesthouse was only a 50m walk away and as we stepped off the bus the full force of the days heat hit is and I am not sure how excited I am about jumping in bicycles again this afternoon in this oppressive heat but maybe it may cool down in the next few hours.  Yeah RIGHT-NOT!!!  The guesthouse was nice.  Lenore and I had a ground floor room and at this particular accommodation the air-conditioning was NOT included.  Well we had to fix that and for the princely sum of 500LKR (3.84AUD) we could have the remote control for the air-conditioner and we got that baby cranked up over lunch.  There were a few people who didn’t want to pay for the air-conditioning which I think is crazy as we really need our sleep at night as our days are so busy, and it is really quite hard to open a window as there are a lot of mozzies around.  I mean each to their own, but for 4 bucks it was a no brainer for Lenore and I AND we went halves, so it was only 1.92AUD each.  Lunch was at the guesthouse and then we were given 10 minutes to freshen up, grab what we would need for the afternoon’s bike ride and we left the hotel at 1pm for the 7 minute walk to the bike collection point for the afternoon.

The bikes surprisingly have been pretty good.  They have suspension and the seats seem to be comfy enough, even for my fat arse, the only thing lacking are the gears, they seem to be preset and I think that may have been part of my ride yesterday, it was in a high gear that was hard to start off with (any excuse) but today didn’t seem to bad and they had a choice of man bikes (high bar) and chick bikes (low bar) which was perfect for this black duck that doesn’t have the best kick leg action anymore to get over on the male bikes.  So after all the seats had been adjusted we set off down a small rocky lane, crossed the main road of town and rode the 5 minutes to The Polonnaruwa Archaeological Museum.  Even that 5 minute ride worked up a sweat, it was going to be a sweaty grimy day and when we walked through the doors of the museum a blast of cool air met us, well for the first room and then it was back to sauna conditions for the rest of the 40 minutes in the building.  Our guide was an engineer during his career so he was handy in giving us information on the buildings.  The museum exhibits finds excavated from the medieval city of Polonnaruwa, a UNESCO-listed site.  It is a great place to start a trip to Polonnaruwa, particularly as its models of the city’s buildings allow visitors to see what they would have looked like before setting off to the actual ruins.  It’s designed so that you walk from one end to the other, passing through a series of rooms, each dedicated to a particular theme: the citadel, the outer city, the monastery area and the periphery, and Hindu monuments. The latter room contains a wonderful selection of bronzes. Of particular interest are the scale models of buildings, including the vatadage (circular relic house), which show how they might have looked in their heyday – if you follow the theory that they once had wooden roofs.

Polonnaruwa is a town and also has the remains of the royal ancient city of the Polonnaru Kingdom.  The second most ancient of Sri Lanka's kingdoms, Polonnaruwa was first declared the capital city by King Vijayabahu I, who defeated the Chola invaders in 1070 to reunite the country once more under a local leader.  The Ancient City of Polonnaruwa has been declared a World Heritage Site.  The real "Hero of Polonnaruwa" of the history books is actually his grandson, Parakramabahu I. It was his reign that is considered the Golden Age of Polonnaruwa, when trade and agriculture flourished under the patronage of the king, who was so adamant that no drop of water falling from the heavens was to be wasted, and each was to be used toward the development of the land; hence, irrigation systems that are far superior to those of the Anuradhapura Age were constructed during Parakramabahu's reign, systems which to this day supply the water necessary for paddy cultivation during the scorching dry season in the east of the country. The Kingdom of Polonnaruwa was completely self-sufficient during King Parakramabahu's reign. 

We left the museum and followed the path that took us past the one of the greatest irrigation systems constructed during Parakramabahu's reign, the Parakrama Samudraya or the Sea of Parakrama. It is of such a width that it is impossible to stand upon one shore and view the other side, and it encircles the main city like a ribbon, being both a moat against intruders and the lifeline of the people in times of peace.  The great artificial lake is at once an expression, a statement of imperial power & monumental feet of engineering: irrigation of 18,000 acres of paddy fields for two seasons a year, a line of defence along the entire west flank of the city against the marauding Dravidian invasions from South India & cooling breeze to the citizens. The great reservoir was named after its imperial designer.

"Not one drop of water must flow into the ocean without serving the purposes of man" - King Parakrambahu the great (1164-1196 AD), the builder of rainwater reservoir "Sea of Parakrama"

It was beautiful with the mountains as a backdrop as we circled back to the bikes to cycle to the entrance of the ancient city to spend the rest of the afternoon looking at these spectacular ruins.  This did involve riding on the main road for 15 minutes and it was a little hairy with buses and trucks and cars all tooting us as we rode.  I guess it would have been funny to see 12 white people cycling on bikes at 2pm in the afternoon all sweating and red faced.  I saw a few air-conditioned vans pass us with tourists inside and I bet that they are thinking what crazies we are, because that is normally me and I would be thinking that we WERE crazy!!!

Our first stop was one of the 14 Hindu temples that could be found in the Kingdom dedicated to God Siva of 12th century vintage.  The South Indian invasion of Polonnaruwa during the 10th century resulted in some Hindu ruins. There are a total of 14 Hindu shrines in ancient Polonnaruwa today, of which the Shiva Devale is one of the best restored. The Shiva Devale was built by the Chola rulers of Polonnaruwa, and contains the male lingam and female yoni, Hindu icons representative of the male and female reproductive organs.  The temple bears sign that it has been restored by anastylosis, a method of restoration which was also employed in Angkor and Borobudur, in which the stones are carefully dismantled, and then reassembled. Missing pieces are replaced with similar stones only for the purpose of maintaining the structure from falling apart.  They all still had numbers on the stones which was nice to have a small insight onto how they carry out the restoration work. 

From here we rode for 5 minutes to Polonnaruwa Vatadage.  Because it was so hot, we had all packed a pair of socks to wear while we were walking around the sacred sites.  It would just be too hot to go bare foot, so as we all walked over the sand in our socks (nice look) it did take the punch out of the heat out of the rock and temples that we were walking on.  Polonnaruwa Vatadage is an ancient structure and  is believed to have been built during the reign of Parakramabahu I to hold the tooth relic of the Buddha, or during the reign of Nissanka Malla to hold the alms bowl used by the Buddha. Both these venerated relics would have given the structure a great significance and importance at the time. Located within the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, it is the best preserved example of a vatadage in the country, and has been described as the "ultimate development" of this type of architecture. Abandoned for several centuries, excavation work at the Polonnaruwa Vatadage began in 1903.  Built for the protection of a small stupa, the structure has two stone platforms decorated with elaborate stone carvings.  Four Buddha statues are seated around it, each facing one of the entrances.  The four Buddha statues, which depict the Dhyana mudra, are also carved from solid rock. Two of them are more or less intact today, while only parts of the other two remain. The stupa in the middle appears to have been of the Bubbulakara (bubble shaped) design commonly seen in Sri Lanka. The upper part has been destroyed, and only the dome shaped lower part now remains.  Three concentric rows of stone columns had also been positioned here, presumably to support a wooden roof. The entire structure is decorated with stone carvings. Some of the carvings at the Polonnaruwa Vatadage, such as its sandakada pahanas, are considered to be the best examples of such architectural features.  This is one of the most photographed images of the ancient city and it was amazing to get to walk and touch it all. 

Not far from the Polonnaruwa Vatadage was Gal Pota which is a massive 26 ft. slab of stone lies by the side of the Hetadage in which King Nissankamalla had his own deeds recorded in stone.  The inscriptions also contain particulars of King Nissankamalla’s genealogy and his wars with Dravidian invaders from South India. The inscription itself says that the slab of stone was brought to the location from Mihintale.  The inscription has been of great assistance to the scholars since it also reveals evolution of the Sinhala script. On the side of Gal Pota are two stone carved Elephants sprinkling water on goddess Lakshmi, the Hindu Goddess of Prosperity and it is claimed that the solid slab of stone was dragged by elephants the 110km from Mihintale.  There were a lot of midgies around, like the second you stopped moving there would be 50 of them around your legs but they didn’t seem to be biting me and Les made a comment that they are probably drowning in our sweat!  Ha ha ha – funny-they probably didn’t have anywhere to land!!! 

Some of the other the buildings that we saw during the first 2 hours also included:

The Hatadage which is an ancient relic shrine.  It was built by Nissanka Malla, and had been used to keep the Relic of the tooth of the Buddha. The Hatadage had been built using stone, brick and wood, although only parts of the brick and stone walls now remain. It appears to have been a two-story structure, but the upper story has now been destroyed. Three Buddha statues carved out of granite rock are located within a chamber of the shrine.  The shrine is surrounded by a stone wall, 37m long and 27m wide.  However, only the walls now remain. The walls of the shrine are made of brick, and the outer walls are covered with stone plates. The main entrance leads to a small chamber.  At the center of this chamber are three standing Buddha statues carved from granite. These are also partially destroyed. The statue in the middle is 2.7m in height, while the other two are 2.3m each.  This is the house of the tooth relic of Lord Buddha built by King Vijayabahu I (1070-1110). This building is built on 54 stone pillars. The tooth relic has been kept on the second floor probably mage out of wood. The access to the second floor is through a granite stair case. Few steps still remain of this staircase which led to the upper chamber of the building.

Satmahal Prasada represents another unusual design for a temple, unique in Polonnaruwa. The name means "Seven Story Edifice", and appears as a stepped pyramid. Historians and archaeologists are stumped as to its origin, as there was no mention of it in the ancient chronicles. Each floor has a niche that contain figurines, some of which still there.  In all likelihood, the Satmahal Prasada probably bears influences from the Khmers, who are renowned at building temple mountains which are ziggurat-like as well. Visitors admiring the Satmahal Prasada can be satisfied with the knowledge that they know as much about it as the historian, that is, nothing.

Thuparama, a brick-built vaulted shrine, is in a fine state of preservation. Thuparma, the oldest image house at Polonnaruwa goes back the reign of King Vijayabahu the first (1055-1110 A.D.).  A brick base about one meter high with three projections once carried an image of Buddha, which is now simple a pile of bricks. The stone images in the Thuparama date back to Anuradhapura period.   This image house is one of the few buildings where you can see a roof completely made out of bricks. Almost the whole building as survived over 900 years miraculously. The roof is a semi-cylindrical in shape. The original name of this image house is not known; therefore the builder of this is also unknown. It is thought that this was built by a minister of King Parakramabahu (1153-1186) called Mahinda to house the tooth relic. Another belief is that this was built by king Vijayabahu I (1070-1110).  The walls of this building are about 2 meters thick and inside a large seating Buddha statue has been kept. Nothings remain of this statue today. It is said that the eyes of this Buddha statue was embedded with precious stones and the windows were designed in such a manner the sunlight would reflect on these stones and light the image house.

The Palace of King Parakramabahu.  The Palace must have been an imposing edifice once, richly decorated and seven stories high: the remaining walls of the palace are of extra-ordinary thickness and the drainage system is intriguing. The structural techniques of this period were the same as those of the Anuradhapura period, but there was a greater use of lime mortar, which enabled the building of brick structures of dimensions never before attempted.  This is a majestic palace build by king Parakramabahu with seven stories and said to have 1000 chambers. Although the main building possibly couldn’t hold such a number of chambers, when you consider the whole palace complex it is thought that this number is a possibility.  Today you can see the massive walls over a meter thick going up to about 9 meters and the bottom half of the main stairway which led to upper floors. Inside the building you can see parts of melted brick walls caused by intense heat when this was set fire by Tamil invaders at the end of Polonnaruwa era. Around the main palace there are remains of more buildings where the ministers, solders and servants lived.  Large holes in the wall probably held massive wooden structures that formed the floor of the upper levels.  Even after facing such destruction by human hand and then by Mother Nature for 800 years, the plastering on these walls still remains in some places.

A little further on was the beautiful royal bath, the Kumara Pokuna. Across the way is the beautiful Royal Audience Hall - embellished with lion portals, graceful pillars and a moonstone. (a delicately carved stepping stone).  Here we decided to stop for a cold drink from a very smart vendor that had set up a shop near the royal bath.  His prices were a little high, but after being out in the blazing sun for 2 hours, I would have paid triple for the cold coke that I held in my hands.  Then I saw someone with an icy pole, so I went back and bought one of those and I have never enjoyed an ice block more than I did at that time and then I went to have a sip of water and I was running on empty, so I had to go back a third time and I bought another bottle of water.  There was a group of Japanese tourists we had been following around the last few sights and they then hit the shop, so he must make a roaring trade down near the baths.  The other thing we had to tackle was the sellers.  It was SO HOT, so it was tough to just concentrate and get from the bikes to some shade to the ruins and back again let alone telling people that you just weren’t interested in buying a stone box, a stone Buddha, an elephant family made from wood or any ‘silver’ jewelry that is not really ‘silver’.  I didn’t want to be rude, after all they are just trying to make a buck as well, but I was over heated, sweaty and just wanted to be left alone.  I did see one guy from the museum that was now at the ruins and he was smart enough to not ask me again if I wanted to buy a straw hat and that was worth the high five we gave each other the next few times we saw each other. 

It was now just after 4pm and we had one more stop of the day and that was to the Gal Vihara.  It was a 25 minute ride from where we were so after our little refreshment stop we were feeling a little more perked up for the ride.  The roads in the park are made mostly of that loose shale, rocks and compacted earth.  We had the backup tuk tuk again today with Janice safely planted in the back.  Nice Garry had decided to get a bike today, so it would have made it harder for me to pack in the bike again today even if I wanted to, but I wanted to try and last the distance today so I stuck in there for the last stop.  I was at the back of the group and the tuk tuk was directly behind me, so I waved the driver up to come closer so that I could hang onto the tuk tuk and get a free ride part of the way.  So he did and I held on for a few minutes before a bridge loomed and I let go so that we could both pass safely over.  He then sped up again for me to hold on so I did and we over took 5 of the group with me yip yaying and whoop whooping the whole time telling the driver to go faster.  I rekon we would have been going 25km an hour, we were hooting along and then Gazza decides to jump on the free ride and took hold of my handle bars.  So we now had a tuk tuk to my left, me attached to the said tuk tuk and then Gazza attached to me.  Does that sound like a recipe for disaster?  Well it was and before I knew it my bike slid out from under me and I was lying face down on the loose gravel wondering what the hell happened.  The tuk tuk stopped of course, the 5 people we had over taken stopped and the rest of the group were at the next stop looking back and after speaking to Christine later who was apart of that first group thought I had been hit by the tuk tuk, she said it looked bad.  I got up, and there was Indika and the tuk tuk driver washing down the dust and stones from my legs with water and before I knew it Serena was there with a wipe and band aide to patch up my gravel rash on my left hand that was bleeding and a gouge I had taken out of my middle finger on my right hand that was also bleeding.  But other than that I had escaped quite miraculously unscathed.  Considering how much more worse it could have been with a vehicle involved (no matter how small) is considered lucky.  I am sure a few bruises will pop up and I was also double lucky as I had my big camera around my neck and that it had escaped any damage considering I fell face first!  What a goose.  Later again people we all telling what they had seen and I really think it was no-one’s fault (but my own stupidity of course) as it seems Gazza let go of my handlebars, I hit a patch of soft sand and it all went pear shaped from there.  I’m not blaming anyone but don’t tell Gazza that as he feel pretty bad about the whole thing and he later confessed that he ran over my back tyre in his attempt to stay on his own bike once I had gone down.  So not only did I nearly get run over by a tuk tuk but I also can add a bike to the equation as well. 

Well after dusting myself off and telling everyone I was okay we cycled on and this is when I felt the pain in my arm and it was excruciating.  I’d say what I had done was try and hold onto the tuk tuk as I fell and my arm was pulled back behind me and I think I have now pulled or strained something in the shoulder region.  I can’t lift my arm up past 90 degrees.  It really really hurt, but I sucked it up and even after Indika’s insistence to hop in the tuk tuk we arrived at Gal Vihara.  The Gal Vihara is a rock temple of the Buddha.  It was constructed in the 12th century by Parakramabahu I. The central feature of the shrine are four images of the Buddha, which have been carved into the face of a large granite rock. The images consist of a large seated figure, another, smaller seated figure inside an artificial cavern, and standing figure and a reclining figure. These are considered to be some of the best examples of ancient Sinhalese sculpting and carving arts, and have made the Gal Vihara one of the most visited monuments in Polonnaruwa.  Each of the images have been carved in a way that uses a maximum possible area of the rock, and their heights seem to have been decided based on the height of the rock itself. Each statue appears to have had its own image house, as indicated by the remains of brick walls at the site. The Gal Vihara, or Uttararama as it was known during that period, was where Parakramabahu I held a congregation of monks to purify the Buddhist priesthood, and later drew up a code of conduct for them. This code of conduct has been recorded in an inscription on the same rock face containing the images of the Buddha.  The main feature of Gal Vihara is the four images of the Buddha that have been carved on a single, large granite rock face.  The rock has been cut almost 4.6m deep to create a rock face to accommodate the statues, and is the only example in the country where a natural rock has been excavated to this extent for such a purpose.  The images position the temple alongside some of the most significant monuments which survive from the ancient kingdoms of Sri Lanka, and make it the most celebrated and visited temple in Polonnaruwa. Three of the images are quite large; the smallest of them is more than 4.6m tall, and the largest is more than 14m long.

The most inspiring was the reclining image, which depicts the Buddha's parinirvana, and is the largest in Gal Vihara.  At 14.12m in length, the reclining image is the largest statue in Gal Vihara, and also one of the largest sculptures in Southeast Asia. It depicts the parinirvana of the Buddha, who is lying on his right side with the right arm supporting the head on a bolster, while the left arm lies along the body and thigh. The palm of the right hand and the soles of the feet have a single lotus flower carved on them.  The upper foot—the left foot of the image—is slightly withdrawn to indicate that the image depicts that the Buddha has attained parinirvana, and is not merely lying down.  So we were barefoot again for the last time and as you walked around this smaller section of the ruins you have to remember that when you get your photo taken with Buddha you can’t have your back to the statue 100% you have to be turned on your side in respect.   

Now it was time to head home-it was past 5pm and we had around a 30 minute ride ahead of us.  My bike was now making a clicking noise, so I must have done some damage to the bike also but I think it may just have been a pedal that was clicking on the chain.  Either way, I was happy that 85% of the ride was downhill and we had to take our chances again on the main road to get back to the bike drop-off house.  There was an amazing sunset as we were riding to my left and I was going to try and take a photo while moving on the bike but thought better of it, can you imagine if I fell off a second time trying to take a photo and I have a funny feeling the bitumen road will do a hell of a lot more damage than the shale road I fell on an hour ago.  We all made it in one piece back, again with some toots from lorry drivers and busses, and when we arrived there was a cold flannel, actually I think it was a frozen one, that we could wipe our hands and faces with and I have to say it was pure heaven, even though in the heat it didn’t stay cold for too long, but it was enough to wipe the grit and sweat from my face.  By this time I was looking quite disheveled.  I was dusty from the fall, which had stuck to the sweat from the day; I had blood on my shorts, sore knees, cuts on my hands and a sore arm.  But I was alive.  I just couldn’t wait to get into a shower and get some clean clothes on.  It would also be nice to have my hair down for once, as it has been too damn hot to leave it down and it has been up the whole trip, considering I am a hair down girl this is a pretty big thing for me.   
Dinner was low key at the restaurant which suited me fine with me as my arm was throbbing.  Lenore and Christine gave me some drugs to tide me over till tomorrow when I would have a chance to get to the pharmacy and get my own supplies.  There was free Wi-Fi at the hotel and I got an email telling me that Human Nature was coming to town at Christmas!!!  So I rang Shelly on her mobile, left a message and told her the great news and then realized that the Elks were still in Singapore.  So I sent a text message asking what night would suit her best and then I was going to buy the tickets.  I also got a message from SA that George Michael had cancelled his concerts in Australia-which is a real bummer as I had arranged all my dates around his concert and to be home for my birthday.  So I am looking at date changing my ticket home by a couple of days so that I can book on the Saudi Arabia Airlines fare to Addis and save 500AUD when I go back to Ethiopia in November.  So George can get stuffed and we now have Toby and the boys from Human Nature to take his place instead. 

So it was an eventful day, a hot day, an interesting day and I SURVIVED.  So it is nice to report that the injury was not alcohol induced and the last time I had a serious injury was my drunken fall in Africa where I had a bruise that lasted nearly 6 months-there must have been something more wrong than a bruise with that, but I got some advice to massage the bruise out on my South America trip and it righted itself.   

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