WEATHER: Cold in the morning with showers Warmed up in the afternoon 21C
HIGHTLIGHT OF THE DAY: Getting one step closer to Machu Picchu
BUYS OF THE DAY: Some more stitched pouches
WORD OF THE DAY: Exuberant
So it is now day 3 for the Inca Trekkers and the weather has turned cold and rainy here in Cusco. I hope the weather is a little better for them on the mountain. They would have completed the hardest day yesterday and I am sure that they are now starting to feel really tired and looking forward to getting back to civilization tomorrow morning.
We are heading to Aguas Calientes today where we will spend one night and then we will meet up with the trekker’s tomorrow morning as they finish the climb and then together we will get a 2 hour tour of the ruins before our own free time before the train and van rides back to Cuzco in the afternoon.
So we had an early start this morning with a wakeup at 5am, breakfast was supposed to be at 5.45am, but they didn’t open till 6am, we did ask them if they would serves us earlier the night before and they said yes. Typical Peru, the message wasn’t passed on. So we had to wolf down a roll and tea before getting collected at 6.20am for a transfer to one of the smaller squares of Cuzco, where we changed into a minivan for the drive to Ollantaytambo 1.5 hours away. We had to wait 40 minutes here, which was a little annoying as we could have had extra time at breakfast or sleeping but we finally got on the road just before 7am. We were a little worried as the drive was supposed to be 1.5 hours and we had to check in at 8.23am for the train on an 8.53am departure. He was going to have to drive like a bat out of hell and hope to goodness that there was going to be limited traffic. We have travelled this way before and after around 40 minutes the driver took a back way through some villages on a dirt road to pop us out just a few kilometers out of the town of Pisaq. Good work and we got to Ollantaytambo at 8.30am with 23 minutes up our sleeve. Currently the only legal way to get to Machu Picchu is by train; hiking along the train tracks is prohibited. There are no roads from the town and helicopter services have been suspended indefinitely. In addition to the train, visitors can reach Machu Picchu via several inbound hiking trails, including the Classic Trail (four-day trek) from Cuzco, but there is no hiking back the other way on the Inca Trail.
There were four carriages going up to Machu Picchu on our departure. We were in carriage A and had allocated seats which were at the front of the carriage. The train reminds me of the Rocky Mountaineer trains. They had skylights in the roof every 3 seats and large picture windows throughout the carriages. It was certainly a better quality train than what I expected which is always a nice surprise. We cover a distance of 43km and it took us 1.5 hours. We passed the starting point of the 4 day Inca trail and we also saw the start of the 1 day trail at the 103km mark. The country side was amazing, travelling through massive mountains following a raging river for the whole distance to Agua Calientes. There were low lying clouds, mist and a little rain all the way, so it just added to the atmosphere of the journey we were making. The announcements on the train were firstly in Spanish and then also in English and we were well informed the whole way if there was anything to look at, if we stopped and some general information as we travelled. It wasn’t intrusive, but quite well done. At the halfway point we were served a hot drink and a small snack. I was getting excited and butterflies in my tummy that I was going to be seeing Machu Picchu tomorrow. Can you believe it!!!! MACHU PICCHU. I know it sounds weird to be having ‘butterflies’ about a tourist destination, but this is definetly a WOW moment that I have been waiting years, seriously years for and I do need to pinch myself that I am actually here.
Arriving at Aguas Calientes, the end of the road at 2000m we were met and walked to our hotel just up, and I mean UP from the small main square. Most of the streets are on slopes in a valley and it is pretty hard to escape an ‘uphill’ somewhere. It was just after 10.30am and we now had all day to explore this small town.
Aguas Calientes, whose real name is Machu Picchu village whose origin dates back to 1901 when the railway that would unite the people of Cusco and Santa Ana came to the camp. Thanks to its location, just 30 minutes by bus from Machu Picchu, it is the place where tourists come to visit the Indian holy city of Machu Picchu. Aguas Calientes is the last station the train leaves from Cusco, the British-owned PeruRail .
The town has developed a tourist infrastructure at all levels, from the simplest to most exclusive hotels. Among its most important tourist attractions are the hot springs located 800 m from the village, to which medicinal properties are attributed to them and give its name. Aguas Calientes also called or known as Machu Picchu Pueblo was forged from the year 1911 with the start of construction of the railway line, 10 years after the discovery of the Inca city of Machu Picchu in 1901. In the year 1928 in its first phase comes to Maquinachayoq camp area at the height of km 110 (currently Machu Picchu Pueblo. This camp was the center of operations of machinery and heavy equipment of the project and as such was a temporary stay of the railway workers.
We had read that Aguas was really touristy and to not expect too much, but from what we saw after we had checked in and walked around, it had a really great atmosphere to the place and the rain had stopped and the clouds had lifted and the day didn’t turn out to bad. I just hope tomorrow was also going to be like this. We decided to have an early lunch and there were plenty of restaurants to choose from with all forms of culinary options. We decided on Mexican and while we waited Paul and I decided to have a beer, and not just any beer, but a 1.1L beer for the grand cost of 15SOL (5AUD). Now is that the bargain of the century or what! So Paul and I have now created the 1L Club and we are 2 members at the moment.
In Aguas Calientes there is only one street. In a section of town the shops are located on both sides of the railway line, giving the impression of the street, until the train arrives. Elsewhere there is a very wide sidewalk, which we had identified itself to the traffic of cars. There were also shops along where the buses leave to go up to Machu Picchu. After lunch we checked out the main square (which is not that big) looped back around and discovered the Handicraft Market next door to the Tourist Train Station. So we ended up spending just over 2 hours in the market and I bought some more of the stitched pouches that I seem to have an affinity for buying at the moment of all different sizes. They are beautiful small stitched bags and they come in an array of colours, sizes and shapes and I am obsession to buying them all. In my defence I am using a few for my travel needs, some for gifts and the rest are, well for me. They really are beautiful. Paul and Lizzie decided to get an hour’s massage. As you can image there are a lot of massage houses around to cater for the needs of the trekkers after they have come off the trail, so Paul and Lizzie got a combination massage for an hour for 15AUD. Not bad, not bad at all. I used the hour to read my book in the sun in a park just outside of the hotel to then meet the guys at 4.30pm to then take a visit to the hot springs.
Thermal Baths of Aguas Calientes or the hot springs are very picturesque, situated on the banks of the Vilcanota River, surrounded by mountains that rise like green walls over 400 meters. The entrance of the hot springs was only a 3 minute walk from the hotel and just before the entrance is an opportunity to rent towels and ‘swim gear’. I hired a towel for 1AUD, but please tell me that not many people rent swimmers. Ughhhhhh I could think of nothing worse, renting swimmers. We then had to climb up a fairly steep path, cross a bridge and climb over 50 steps to get us to the ticket check and bag drop for the springs. The path overlooks the pools of the springs and the water doesn’t look that inviting, with it a being a little cloudy and brownish. But we figured that there wasn’t that much else to do and we had paid already, so we changed, check our bags in the compulsory lockers for 40 cents and then headed to the pools. They had 6 pools, so after rinsing off at the hot taps (they also had the option of freezing taps) we headed to the least busiest pool and were disappointed that the water was luke warm. The floor of the pool was sand, which was nice on the feet, but the water just wasn’t hot enough. So we went to the next pool over and that was a lot warmer than the first but nothing like the pools we went to in the Colca Canyon. So we decided to give the main pool, which was also the busiest a go and this by far was the hottest. You could pick the trekkers, they were either swimming in their underwear or they were hobbling around with ‘trekking injuries’ or sore muscles. Even though they weren’t the greatest hot springs, if you had trekked for 4 days, I could see how the pools would definitely make you feel 100% better and to make sure you take some swimmers.
We spent just over an hour, with a beer in hand, which was delivered personally by the bar guy to the pool. You just have to wave your arms and he comes down to take your order and you pay on the way out. It was only a 330ml can, so no liter club here. I guess you wouldn’t want to encourage people to drink too much in the pool as we all know what eventually has to happen with too much liquid consumption. Paul and I decided to finish the hot pool experience the way it was supposed to and rinsed off in the FREEZING showers, seriously it took my breath away it was that cold, but I have to say that I wasn’t cold when I stepped out, it was weird that I still felt quite warm – how does that work?
Dinner was at an Italian restaurant just up from the hotel. The further down we walked meant that we would have to walk back up again, so we stopped at the first restaurant we liked. The food on a whole has been a lot more expensive than anywhere else, but I guess you get that at any tourist town. The food was good and the service was exceptional so you don’t mind paying the money when you get both. They also include the service tip here automatically, which is a little annoying, but it’s the way it’s done here.
So it is the last night the trekkers have on the mountain. So what exactly did we miss? After today and the other ruin walks we have done, I know for a fact that I would not have been able to cope on the trek. I am still HAPPY that I did not do it. For me the dream has always been the ruins themselves and not the trek, and that was back in my younger years and fitter years, I still had that mindset, so it isn’t because I am now older and more unfit that reflected my decision.
The Inca Trail is by far the most famous trek in South America and is rated by many to be in the top 5 treks in the world. In just 26 miles (43km) it manages to combine beautiful mountain scenery, lush cloud-forest, and subtropical jungle and, of course, a stunning mix of Inca paving stones ruins and tunnels. The final destination of the trail just cannot be beaten: Machu Picchu, the mysterious "Lost City of the Incas".
The Classic 4-day Inca Trail trek that starts at km82 (82 kilometres along the railway from Cusco to Aguas Calientes) and treks high up into the mountains passing the Inca ruins of Llactapata, Runkurakay, Sayacmarca, Phuyupatamarca and Wiñay Wayna before finally arriving at Machu Picchu for sunrise on the 4th day of the trek.
Day 1 (12km): The trekkers were collected early from their hotel and travel by bus from Ollantaytambo, to kilometer 82 (the start of the trail). Hikers cross the Vilcanota River and follow the trail to the right as it climbs steeply up from the river. After passing through a small village, the ruins of the Inca hillfort of Huillca Raccay come into view high above the mouth of the river Cusichaca ('happy bridge'). It is a simple descent down to the Cusichaca River.
For a further 7 km the path follows the left bank of the river up to the village of Wayllabamba (3,000m). The name in Quechua means 'grassy plain'. Most tour groups spend the first night here although there are prettier campsites a little further on.
Day 2 (11km): Climbing up from Wayllabamba for about 3 hours through steepening woods and increasingly spectacular terrain brings you to the tree line and a meadow known as Llulluchapampa (3,680m). It is another 1½ hours climb to the first and highest pass of the trail (Abra de Huarmihuañusca or 'Dead Woman's Pass) at 4,200m. During this part of the trail hikers are exposed to the Andean elements: first scorching sun and then, closer to the pass, freezing winds. Once at the top hikers can celebrate having completed the most difficult section of the trail. The decent from the pass is steep although not difficult, following the trail on the left side of the valley to the valley floor and to the 2nd night's campsite at Pacamayo (3,600m). There are toilet facilities here.
Day 3 (16km): From Pacamayo it takes about an hour to climb up to the ruins of Runkuracay. These small circular ruins occupy a commanding position overlooking the Pacamayo valley below. Another 45 minute hike will bring you to the top of the second pass: Abra de Runkuracay (4,000m). At last you'll feel that you are walking along the trail of the Incas with paving, for the most part, being original. The descent down the steps from the pass is steep so take care. This section of the trail, up till the 3rd pass, is particularly beautiful as the path crosses high stone embankments and skirts deep precipices. After about 1 hour from the 2nd pass you'll arrive at Sayacmarca by way of a superbly designed stone staircase. The name Sayacmarca means 'Inaccessible Town' and describes the position of the ruins perfectly, protected on three sides by sheer cliffs. No one knows the exact purpose of these ruins.
You have to backtrack a little to rejoin the trail as it passes Conchamarca, a small Inca dwelling situated in the shadows of Sayacmarca, which was probably a tambo for weary travelers on their way to Machu Picchu. From then on the path descends into magnificent cloudforest full of orchids, hanging mosses, tree ferns and flowers, passing through an impressive Inca tunnel, carved into the rock, on the way.
The trail then climbs up to the 3rd pass (3,700m). The view from the pass offers excellent views of several snow-capped peaks including Salkantay (6,271m) and Veronica (5,750m). A few minutes after the pass is Phuyupatamarca, the most impressive Inca ruin so far. The name means 'Town in the Clouds'. Access to the ruins is down a steep flight of stairs passing six 'Inca Baths' probably used for the ritual worship of water. Leaving the site via an impressive Inca staircase leading from the west side of the ruins (the far end from the baths) you descend a thousand or so steps. Be careful with your knees which will feel the strain by the end of the day.
A short trail that goes to the ruins of Wiñay Wayna. The name in Quechua means 'forever young' and is named after a variety of pink orchid which grows here. The ruins comprise magnificent agricultural terraces set in an impressive location. There are also many buildings of good quality stonework and a sequence of 10 baths, suggesting that the site was probably a religious center associated with the worship of water. Ritual cleansing may have taken place here for pilgrims on the final leg of the trail to Machu Picchu.
Day 4 (6km): The trail to Machu Picchu is clearly marked and takes about 1½ hours. Most people attempt to wake up at 4.30am so that they can leave Wiñay Wayna by 5.30am to get to Machu Picchu before sunrise. The sky starts getting light by 6am and the first rays of the sun reach Machu Picchu at about 7am. The trail contours a mountainside and drops into cloudforest before coming to an almost vertical flight of 50 steps leading up to the final pass at Intipunku (Sun Gate). Suddenly the whole of Machu Picchu is spread out before you in all its glory - a fantastic sight for all.
After 3.5 days of trekking the guys climb and descend approximately 76,000 steps. 76,000 STEPS. It is an amazing feat and I think it will take a few days for it all to sink in the enormity of what they have actually achieved!
So good luck trekkers for your last night. We can’t wait to see you all tomorrow and give you a massive welcome back hug.
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