WEATHER: A glorious clear blue sky day 22C
HIGHTLIGHT OF THE DAY: The floating islands of the Uros
BUMMER OF THE DAY: Hills, hill HILLS
BUYS OF THE DAY: Handmade tapestry from Aruntawi people
WORD OF THE DAY: Hills, Hill, HILLS
Today we head on a boat to some of the islands of Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca is a body of water located in the Collao plateau in the Central Andes at an average altitude of 3812 meters between the territories of Bolivia and Peru . It has an area of 8562 km ² of which 56% (4772 km ²) correspond to Peru and 44% (3790 km ²) in Bolivia and 1125 km of coastline; its maximum depth is estimated at 281m and calculated the average depth at 107 m. The levels are irregular and increase during the austral summer. Lake Titicaca lies between Andean ranges in a basin of about 58 000 km ² and it is the highest navigable lake in the world and is ranked 19th in the world on the surface.
We got a ‘local limo’ which was one of the man powered tuk tuk’s down to the jetty to where our local boat was waiting for us. Kate and I got into one of the pedal Tuk Tuks, with our night bags behind us, we just fit in and we felt sorry for our little pedal guy as we left he was already heavy breathing before getting to the first corner of the square, but we were soon to find out it was downhill the whole way, which made us feel better, it was just tough if we got caught at a red light, he would lose his momentum and have to put some work in to get us rolling again. As always when you have a group, we all try and race, as we were the first to leave, we were the first to arrive, just, and with a few speed bumps, drain crossings that were bumpy we made it safe and sound to the jetty. It was fun and we got a great laugh which is a nice way to start the day.
After boarding our boat, which looked quite decent, it had an inside area with seats, an outside section with seats and also bench seats on the roof. We were going to be spending 3.5 hours on her today and 4 hours on her tomorrow, so lucky it was nice. They had a toilet on board that was for use of number 1’s only and a few life jackets scattered around. It is a slow boat and I can see why it takes so long to get to where we are going when it doesn’t look that far on the map!
Our first stop was only 30 minutes away to the floating islands of Uros. They are a group of artificial islands made of reeds built in Lake Titicaca. Its inhabitants are the aurochs , an ancient town which is currently distributed in the plateau of Collaoand that in Peru only inhabit the floating islands located in the Bay of Puno. The floating islands are based on a culture linked to the lake and the reeds that rises from the lake bottom.
In Peru there are more than 20 islands of ethnic Chulluni uro, the number of families occupying an island is quite variable, generally between three and ten. These islands are made and re-made from the totora reeds which provide home, sustenance and transportation for their residents. These floating islands are the home of the Uros tribe, one which pre-dates the Incan civilization. According to their legends, they existed before the sun, when the earth was still dark and cold. They were impervious to drowning or being struck by lightning. They lost their status as super beings when they disobeyed universal order and mixed with humans, making them susceptible to contempt. They scattered, losing their identity, language, and customs. They became the Uro-Aymaras, and now speak Aymara. Because of their simple and precarious lifestyle, the Incas thought them worth little and accordingly taxed them very little. Yet the Uros, with their basic reed homes outlasted the mighty Incas with their huge stone temples and mountain-top enclaves.
The totora is a cattail type rush growing native in the lake. Its dense roots support the top layer, which rots and must be replaced regularly by stacking more reeds on top of the layer beneath. The islands change in size, and more are created as the need arises. The largest island is currently Tribuna. The surface of the islands is uneven, thin, and some liken walking on it to walking on a waterbed. The unwary might not notice a thin spot and sink a leg or more into the frigid waters of the lake.
The islands are part of the Titicaca National Reserve, created in 1978 to preserve 37 thousand hectares of marsh reeds in the south and north sectors of Lake Titicaca. The reserve protects over 60 species of native birds, four families of fish and 18 native amphibians species. There are three islands in the lake, Huaca Huacani, Toranipata and Santa María.
The floating islands are protected within the Bay of Puno and are home to 2000 or so Uros, who claim to have "black blood”, are consequently immune to the cold. They call themselves be kot-suña, or people of the lake, and consider themselves the owners of the lake and its waters. They continue living by fishing, weaving and now, tourism. They catch fish for themselves and to sell on the mainland. They also catch shore birds and ducks for eggs and food. Occasionally, if the level of the lake decreases, they may plant potatoes in soil created by the decaying reeds, but as a norm, they are not agricultural. The reed boats quite often have an animal face or shape on the prow and are a favorite photographic subject.
The Uros residents of the islands create their homes from the reeds. The roofs are waterproof but not humidity resistant. Cooking fires are built on a layer of stones to protect the reeds. Residents wear layers of clothing, mostly woolen, to protect themselves from the cold, the wind, and the sun which at this altitude can burn fiercely. Many women still wear the distinctive derby type hat and full skirts.
There are over 60 islands in Lake Titicaca. During the low season (now) they rotate the visitors each day, so they all get an even share of tourists to the island. The island that we visited was called Aruntawi and we were welcomes by colorful men and women into their home. The island hosts 6 families, which of 3 still live on the floating island, the other 3 families live come back and forth from the mainland. It was a weird sensation walking on the island, as your feet sunk in a little to the dry reeds that are placed on top of the floating reeds. It felt like you were walking on a massive waterbed. We were told to not stray too close to the edge of the island as it maybe a little unstable and you could fall through! I’m not sure during my time there, my shoes had some water marks on them, hmmmmmm not sure what the reeds are weight tested to? But it made me a little nervous!!!! The island itself must have been 50m x 30m and they had like a donut square in the middle that was open to the lake and where they keep live fish of the lake till they are ready to eat them.
It was a little touristy, but why not cash in, if they get the visitors good luck to them. They also offer their handicrafts for sale to visitors, and I couldn’t help but buy something as I know the money was going straight back to them, so I know I was helping the families of the island. It was a beautiful tapestry that I will be able to get framed and hung on the wall, well when I get a home! After a demonstration of how the islands are made and how they barter with each other we were given the option to have a ride in a local boat called a Balsa boat. It too is also made of reeds and for 10SOL (3.50AUD) we could get a ride to another island 15 minutes away. It was surprising, but in was one of the first up, Miss ‘I don’t like little boats’ person. As the day was just amazing, with clear blue skies and amazing cloud patterns it made for great photos on and off the boat. We arrived at another floating island to have a quick look around to then board back onto our motor boat for the 3 hour journey and our home for the night with our new family, our Mama and our Papa. We had been given a brochure that had the some local Quechua phrases that was suggested we learn for our new family.
I used the 3 hours to start working out my plans for next year. It is nearly 2012 and I need to start working out exactly what I am doing after my South American component finishes in May. So I have got a list of people to visit in the US, so I have now worked out dates and will need to email them all and check if they will be around. I have worked out when I will be home next year for 5 weeks, before my new journey starts, and I am nearly ready to reveal, but not just yet. Stay tuned for that one. But I have figured I will purchase another round world ticket, originating in Lima. They really are great value. I will need to check if Beth can ticket in Oz, otherwise I will have to try and find an agent in Chile or Argentina, which could prove difficult if they don’t speak English. I’ll see what Beth comes back with. But I feel like a BILLION dollars knowing what I will be doing next year now and I can’t wait to share it with you all when I know for sure. It is so EXCITING!!!!
We arrived on Amantani Island just before 2pm. We had our Mama and Papa’s waiting for us when we arrived. Roger called out our names, introduced us to our family, tested on our hello and ‘our name is’ before getting taken in 2’s and 3’s for the night with our local family. Our Mama’s name was Effannia and we had to walk for around 15 minutes all UPHILL to get to our house for the night. We are talking serious hill-age and at 4000m above sea level we were really feeling the pinch in our breathing and had to have several stops on the way making the 15 minutes more like 30 minutes. Plus we were carrying our ‘gifts’ of 3kg each to add to my own bloody weight, it was tough!!!!
The island of Amantani is located in Lake Titicaca. It is almost circular with a diameter of 3.4 km. Covers an area of 9.28 km ², the largest island of the Peruvian side of the lake. Its maximum height at the top of the mountain is Llacastiti 4150m. The population is approximately 800 families, distributed over 8 communities. Their main livelihood is farming, producing potatoes, oca, barley and beans, in the sobresalesn livestock and beef cattle. Due to the existence of granitic rock in the hill Llacastiti activity has developed a cutting and carving utensils for everyday use and construction decorative elements.
The occupation of the island dates back to the pre-Inca. By the 1580s the island was sold by the Spanish King Charles V to Pedro Gonzalez. Since that time the island was held by the landowners of Spanish descent. In early 1900, as a result of severe drought, farmers began to sell the land to the natives. Approximately in 1950 Amantani farmers had acquired almost the entire island. They have adopted an organization based on kinship and reciprocity in the work of the family-owned plots of land.
We met our Papa Teodocio, who showed us to our room, which was plenty big for the 3 and I was pleasantly surprised on the home. There were toilets, they didn’t flush, but you used the water to flush, which was just as good. There was also a shower, but it only had a cold water tap and it was a little bit nippily to be having a shower. We were then served lunch in a small room next to our sleeping room. We were served a local soup for entrée and then grilled halumi cheese and potatoe for the main meal finished off with some fresh mint tea. Literally mint leaves and stem mixed with hot water. It was delicious and with my small cold I had coming on it was quite pleasant. We had an hour to kill before heading to a meeting point of the village where we were to meet up again with everyone and then if you wanted to, climb to the top of the island to see a church and get a view of the island. So at 4pm, our Mama took us to the community sports centre, where some of our guys were playing some of the local guys in a friendly game of football. We watched and waited for around 45 minutes before the group set off on their walk. Kate and I decided not to go, me I knew I would really struggle and Kate was still recovering from Machu Picchu (much better excuse than mine) so we made our own way back home and had some free time till our party that night at the local hall.
Marla came back at 6.45pm and said the walk/climb was tough but the view and sunset was pretty good. I’m still glad I didn’t go. By this time it was FREEZING and we were tucked in bed, reading. Dinner was served at 7.15pm and we ate in the kitchen with Mama and Papa and this is where we presented them with the food that we had bought. Marla had also thrown in packet of plastic farm animals and their 9 year old son thought they were the beez neez. Mama went through the bags as soon as we had given them to her, so hopefully she was happy with what we had bought. Dinner was a carb smorgasbord. The local soup as entrée and then the main meal was rice with fried potatoes and mint tea again as the finisher. It was delicious and it was good to taste good an old fashioned home cooked meal.
The party was to start at 8.15pm. Mama knocked on our door a few minutes before and she came bearing some local clothes for us to get dressed in. I was concerned about sizing, but the local Peruvian ladies seem to be of a substantial size, so the top, skirt and belt had no worries fitting me. It was the skinnies that had problems as the clothes were too big!!! We all looked great and once we were dressed Papa took his ‘gals’ to the party. We were one of the first to arrive, but it didn’t take long for the hall to fill, and we all looked amazing in their native clothes. The boys had beanies and woven poncho’s and they had a local band playing some tunes to which we danced with our Mama’s and Papa’s. It was a pretty cool evening and after a few hours it was time to head home and to get some sleep. It has been a massive day.
So as we fell asleep in our big warm beds, it is amazing just how simple people can live and still be happy. Our Mama and Papa looked happy living the simple life and who could blame then with no pressure of the outside world hassling them each day.
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