LAKE TITICACA AND HER ISLANDS

WEATHER: Hot and 22C

HIGHTLIGHT OF THE DAY: Getting some sun in the afternoon

BUYS OF THE DAY: Peruvian Chinese dinner and drink for $4AUD

WORD OF THE DAY: Spirit of the day

An early start to the day with a 6.15am wakeup, breakfast was set for 7.15am and then we were to meet the rest of the group again for our departure from Amantani Island. 

Our Mama walked us back to the ferry at 8am.  I think we got the best of best of both worlds because our Mama didn’t speak English.  The walk down hill wasn’t as bad as the uphill business, but it really was quite steep in places and by the time I got to the bottom I had shaky legs.  My excuse is it’s the altitude!!

We were stopping at one more island before heading back to the mainland and arrived at Taquile just after 9.30am.  Taquile is a more touristy island than Amantani, but they still live very traditionally here.  It has a population of about 2,200 inhabitants and the main village is at 3950m and the highest point of the island reaches 4050m. This island was one of the last places in Peru that capitulated against the Spanish in the sixteenth century. The Spanish banned traditional dress Inca, so the islanders had to take the peasant dress to wear today. The island is narrow and long, was used as a prison during the Spanish Colony and in the world 20. In 1970 it became the property of the people of Taquile, who have inhabited the island since then.

The island has a maximum length of 5.5 km and a width of 1.5 km limit, the second largest island in the lake (5.72 km ²).  The western slope is almost vertical, while the eastern slope less steep offers. With the thermoregulatory effect of the lake on the island there is a microclimate favorable to agriculture.

It should be noted that the spinning and weaving is done mostly by men, starting at the age of eight years. Women make only spinning and weaving.  Life in Taquile is still largely unchanged by the modernity of the continent. There are no cars and hotels on the island there are only small shops selling commodities. Most households use candles or flashlights with batteries or crank. Small solar panels were recently installed in some homes.

The Taquileños are also known to have created an innovative model of community-controlled tourism, offering that stays in homes with families, transportation, and restaurants for tourists. Since tourism began to reach Taquile.  In the seventies they gradually lost control over mass tourism operated by non Taquileños. The models have been redeveloped so Taquileaños alternative tourism, including accommodation for groups, cultural activities and local guides, who have recently completed training program for 2 years. In addition, a local travel agency they are set to regain control over tourism.

Taquile wildlife including sheep, sheep, cows, guinea pigs, chickens. Dogs and cats are rare and if you want to have to ask permission from the authorities of the community and tourism revenue generates money from approximately 40 000 tourists visit each year.

Once we had arrived onto the island and Roger had paid the local leader our entry fee, we had an hour to walk the few kilometers up hill to get to the main square.  We were told not to buy things from children as it encouraged them to not go to school and same rules applied as the other islands to not give children candy/lollies due to not having access to a dentist.  There are 6 communities on the island compromising of around 2000 people. 

So the walk took around 50 minutes, but Nic, Omar and I took our time and stopped at some small stalls, well goods on material, and buying a few bits of handiwork along the way.  I am glad we were able to take out time, as there were more HILLS on this island as well; I tell ya they are killing me!  It was worth the walk though, the main square had an amazing view of lake Titicaca and they had a co-op in one of the buildings that sold local handicrafts including alpaca sweaters, jumpers, vests, bags and belts to name a few.  I found the prices a little expensive and you weren’t able to bargain with them, so for once I didn’t buy anything.  I know, can you believe it!

Lunch was at one of the restaurants that have been set up for the tourists that visit the islands.  It was basic served with a local soup for entrée and then there were only 2 items on the menu for the main.  Grilled Trout or a vegetarian omelet.  After I found out the fish wouldn’t have its head and it would be served with a lemon, that was what made up my mind and I have to say it was delicious.  All for the grand total of 6.50AUD!!!!

It was 12.30pm and time to leave the island.  We were leaving from the other side of the island, so we got to walk past some of the local shops and then we had to walk down 545 rocky steps to get us down the other side and back to the boat.  Once again there was no hurry and you really had to watch where you were stepping as the rock steps were all different height, width and uneven, so you had to make sure you stopped every now and then to enjoy the view before continuing down.  We were lucky again for the second day in a row to not have any rain and a glorious day, blue skies and the sun shining on us.

We then had a 3 hour journey back to the mainland and Puno.  I was inside to start with as there wasn’t enough room on the back deck, but as the sun was quite strong, people came inside, which made room for me and I went out to get some colour.  Mark had warned us that being so high in altitude and also the reflection of the water, you burn a lot faster, so I did what I have only done a handful of times and I put on sunscreen (expect my nose gets a coat a lot).  I know, me putting on sunscreen.  I didn’t want to be a lobster when we are still in cold weather and have my clothes rubbing against my sensitive skin.  So 40+ I applied and it was a good decision as I still got a wad of colour so it was a smart move.  So with the Peruvian sun on my skin, my favorite tunes in my ears, a book at hand and a future plan to think about-it was a great way to unwind and I really enjoyed the boat ride back.  A few people were complaining that it was a long way to go for the night, which maybe a little true, but it is good to get a taste and to get out on the water when we had such good weather.

We were back to Puno just after 4pm, where our faithful shuttle was waiting for us to transfer us back to the hotel.  Kate and I just chilled until 7pm where we met the rest of the crew and headed to a local Chinese restaurant for dinner.  It was quite comical as none of us spoke Cantonese or Spanish, so we had 8 pages of Spanish Chinese with a few pictures interceded.  So I stuck with what I knew and saw and got a wonton and chicken soup and it was tasty.  Add a soft drink to the meal and it cost me 4AUD.  Talk about a cheap meal – that is insane. 

We were all pretty tired by this point and with it raining outside it was time to just head back to the hotel.  I wanted to get messages sent to my ‘peeps’ in the States and get that ball rolling, emailing Beth for the flights and answering some general emails before bed.

Today was our last day in Peru after 3 weeks and we head into Bolivia and another new country to add to my growing list.  Peru was amazing, from deserts to beaches to big cities and ancient civilizations, the main highlight for me was macho Picchu.  That visit was a dream come true for me. 

So adios to Peru and hola to Bolivia.